101 IRRAWADDY ROAD #17-07
ROYAL SQUARE AT NOVENA
MEDICAL SUITES
CONTACT: +65 6355 0522

DIOR Skincare Capture Totale Serum Launch and Press Conference

February 17, 2020

Singapore, 5 December 2019 –

Dr. Teo Wan Lin was invited as a key opinion leader on cosmeceutical skincare at the press conference for Dior Skincare’s Capture Totale Serum, held at Capella Hotel, Sentosa. The author of “Skincare Bible – Dermatologist’s Tips for Cosmeceutical Skincare”, launching islandwide in bookstores January 2020, Dr. Teo shared her thoughts on anti-ageing and the science of cosmeceutical formulations.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Teo Wan Lin (@drteowanlin) on

“The earlier we start anti-ageing treatment, such as preventive skincare, the better off we are at combating the signs of ageing.’ Dr. Teo emphasised the urgency of preventing anti-ageing, an ongoing process starting in the mid-twenties and aggravated by biological factors such as genetics as well as environmental exposures.

“My research into cosmeceutical active ingredients demonstrates that when serums are correctly formulated and delivered they are able to fight free radicals effectively, such as that caused by photoageing and environmental stressors”. As a prominent researcher in the area of cosmeceutical skincare, she shared tips on choosing the right skincare products for an efficient regimen.

“Another important concept in skincare is how well absorbed it is- for example, the New Generation Vector biofermented lipo-peptide enhances the penetration of the floral complex by 30%,” Dr. Teo shared that women are extremely well educated on the importance of a skincare regimen these days— starting with double cleansing, application of Antioxidant serums before moisturising and sunblock. A good serum can be efficiently incorporated as a day and night serum in a skincare regimen.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Teo Wan Lin (@drteowanlin) on

On the importance of organic active ingredients used in Skincare, as well as the extraction and processing process, cosmetic giants are becoming increasingly aware of clean beauty. “From a dermatologist perspective, it is reassuring that the Dior Scientists maintain purity of these extracts with strict pharmaceutical engineering principles— there are especially critical steps to prevent loss of clinical activity, as well as environmental contamination which can affect the final product.”

Some final thoughts on anti-ageing from Dr. Teo included the following.

A dermatologist’s approach to ageing
“We stage objectively using a scale known as the Glogau Photoageing Scale, named after a dermatologist Dr. Richard Glogau and is graded on a scale of 1-4, with most of us in the audience here today at 2 or a 3, which means we have some early to moderate signs of ageing, such as pigmentation spots, fine lines and some changes in our skin texture.”

The Dior Scientists also created the Dior Skin Scanner with this approach in mind, as it offers the public an objective scientific evaluation which previously was only assessable via a dermatologist’s visit.

This also means that the earlier we start anti-ageing treatment, such as preventive skincare, the better off we are at combating the signs of ageing— this includes the ability of the skin to fight free radicals effectively, such as that caused by photoageing and environmental stressors.

More skincare and cosmeceutical formulation tips can be found in Dr. Teo’s new book “Skincare Bible – Dermatologist’s Tips for Cosmeceutical Skincare”, which is available via www.drtwlderma.com, as an e-book via Barnes & Noble, Apple Books and in major bookstores island wide.

NOTES TO EDITOR:
Dr. Teo Wan Lin, Medical Director of TWL Specialist Skin & Laser Centre, is an accredited dermatologist , specialising in both medical and cosmetic dermatology. She is a Fellow of the Academy of Medicine, Singapore, College of Physicians, Chapter of Dermatologitsts and a Member of the Royal College of Surgeons (UK).

 

Meet with Dr Teo Wan Lin, an accredited dermatologist at TWL Specialist Skin & Laser Centre, for a thorough consultation to determine the most suitable treatment for your skin.
To book an appointment with Dr Teo, call us at +65 6355 0522, or email appt@twlskin.com. Alternatively, you may fill up our contact form here.

How Argireline works for Anti-aging

February 5, 2020

 

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Teo Wan Lin (@drteowanlin) on

Dr. Teo Wan Lin is an accredited dermatologist and an expert on cosmeceutical skincare research and development. She is the author of “Skincare Bible – Dermatologist’s Tips for Cosmeceutical Skincare” which was published July 2019 by leading bookstores Barnes & Noble, Baker & Taylor and Apple Books and available in bookstores islandwide from January 2020. She heads up Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals, a specialist cosmeceutical skincare line with evidence-based active ingredients for anti-ageing and skin health. Its subsidiaries, the Pi- Cosmeceutical Custom Makeup Lab and the Conscious Mask Bar are part of the Conscious Concept Pharmacy launched in December featuring environmentally sustainable makeup and skincare materials. 

 

In recent years, the beauty and cosmetic industry has experienced a shift towards products which contain bioactive ingredients with the effects of medical drugs. Argireline-based dermal creams, lotions and ointments are among the emerging cosmeceuticals with promises for anti-wrinkle and anti-aging effects from the comfort of home, replacing the need for extensive botox, laser treatments and surgeries to achieve that youthful look.

What is argireline?

Argireline is an established and innovative product used in the cosmetic market as creams, lotions and ointments and is well-known for its anti-aging properties. It is a synthetic hexapeptide produced in the lab, which is composed of chains of amino acids and patterned from the N-terminal end of the protein SNAP-25

It inhibits the movement of facial muscles, allegedly improving skin texture and tone. Research suggests that Argireline may not penetrate deep enough into the skin to consistently provide benefits.

Argireline is a synthetic hexapeptide peptide that is patterned from the N-terminal end of the protein SNAP-25 and has been shown to reduce the degree of facial wrinkles. It is reported to inhibit vesicle docking by preventing formation of the ternary SNARE complex and by interfering in catecholamine release. The anti-wrinkle efficacy of argireline has not been studied in Chinese subjects.

 

How does argireline reduce the effects anti-aging?

Argireline reduces periorbital wrinkles and prevents the formation of skin lines in a similar way the botulinum toxin (Botox) works, by inhibiting neurotransmitter release at the neuromuscular junction. When argireline is applied to the skin, it is absorbed into the body and its chemical composition causes the facial muscles to contract with less force. This diminishes the appearance of wrinkles and can smooth out fine lines that appear with aging. Argireline-based creams can be quite effective, and in some cases, users of argireline-based serums can experience as much as a 30% reduction in fine lines and wrinkles.

A randomized, placebo-controlled study by Wang, Y. conducted in 2013 has also shown that argireline reduced the depth of the wrinkles with a total anti wrinkle efficiency of 48.9% in 60 patients. When the same test was performed on mice, there were notable improvements in the morphology of skin tissue and the amount of Type Ⅰ collagen fibers increased while the amount of type Ⅲ collagen fibers decreased.

The total anti-wrinkle efficacy in the group with patients tested with argireline was 48.9 % whereas the efficacy was 0 % in the placebo group. The parameters of roughness were all decreased in the argireline group, while no decrease was observed in the placebo group.

 

Dr. TWL’s Oligopeptide vegetal capsules contain argireline. With its clinically proven anti-aging properties, our Oligopeptide capsules relaxes facial tension lines resulting in less noticeable fine lines and wrinkles. 

 

References:

  1. Argireline. (2019, April 05). Retrieved from https://thedermreview.com/argireline/
  2. The anti-wrinkle efficacy of argireline, a synthetic hexapeptide, in Chinese subjects: a randomized, placebo-controlled study. Wang Y, Wang M, Xiao S, Pan P, Li P, Huo J. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2013 Apr;14(2):147-53. 
  3. The anti wrinkle efficacy of synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) in Chinese Subjects. Wang Y, Wang M, Xiao XS, Pan P, Li P, Huo J. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2013 Apr 22. 
  4. The study of cellular cytotoxicity of argireline – an anti-aging peptide. Grosicki M, Latacz G, Szopa A, Cukier A, Kieć-Kononowicz K. Acta Biochim Pol. 2014;61(1):29-32. Epub 2014 Mar 17.

Dermatologist Talks: Sensitive Skin – A Form of Eczema

February 3, 2020

Sensitive skin is typically characterized by dryness, flaking, sensations of stinging and itching associated with skin redness. It is actually a form of dermatitis otherwise known as eczema. I see a large number of patients who come in with complaints of persistent sensitive skin. What they often do not realise is that it is a form of eczema. Eczema can be caused by genetic factors and also external factors such as a change in environment and climate, presence of pollen, animal fur and dust. In this article, I shall share a few tips that I usually expound on with my patients and hopefully shed some light on this condition.

Dr. Teo Wan Lin is an accredited dermatologist and an expert on cosmeceutical skincare research and development. She is the author of  “Skincare Bible – Dermatologist’s Tips for Cosmeceutical Skincare”  which was published July 2019 by leading bookstores Barnes & Noble, Baker & Taylor and Apple Books and available in bookstores islandwide from January 2020. She heads up Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals, a specialist cosmeceutical skincare line with evidence-based active ingredients for anti-ageing and skin health. Its subsidiaries, the Pi- Cosmeceutical Custom Makeup Lab and the Conscious Mask Bar are part of the Conscious Concept Pharmacy launched in December featuring environmentally sustainable makeup and skincare materials. In this series “Dermatologist Talks” she shares her top tips on common skincare topics. In this article, she tells us the science behind sensitive skin – a form of eczema.

 

 

What causes eczema? 

Eczema  is due to a defect in the skin barrier. The skin is best characterized by a brick and mortar model whereby the bricks of the skin cells are joined together by this cement which holds the skin cells together. People who have sensitive skin or eczema actually have defective ceramide which is the cement of the brick wall which is the skin. This is genetically determined and people who develop eczema in the later part of their lives can also have their condition triggered off by environmental factors such as differences in humidity from dry to humid weather and vice versa. The use of harsh cleansers can also cause eczema to develop over one’s lifetime. 

Does ageing cause eczema? 

With regards to the development of sensitive skin with age, the same concept of our body’s organ degenerating with age, our skin also degenerates. The main thing is the quality and quantity of ceramide which is produced throughout one’s lifetime decreases with age. On that note, skin can become more sensitive with age.

What should I look out for in sensitive skin products? 

 The ingredients that are essential for sensitive skin would be a moisturizer and a gentle cleanser. A gentle cleanser such as one that is formulated with minimal laureate sulfate content, which is the foaming component of a cleanser, would be beneficial for a patient who suffers from skin sensitivity. In addition, the use of a ceramide-containing moisturizer is essential. Traditional moisturizers contain humectants such as glycerine which trap water under the skin. Increasing research in dermatology shows that one should be replacing the defective and deficient ceramide content in the skin barrier by applying ceramide rich moisturizers. More information on using Dr.TWL’s Multi-CERAM Moisturizer for eczema treatment can be found here.

Dr.TWL Multi-CERAM Moisturizer is an ultra intensive skin moisturiser for total skin barrier repair with pharmaceutical grade ingredients. It contains phytoceramides which aids in skin barrier repair and multi-ceramide which aids in skin lipid restoration.

Dr.TWL Honey Cleanser is a blend of nature-derived emulsifiers. It is anti-flaking and supples skin. It is also recommended for all skin types as it is a gentle cleanser.

Where is ceramide from? 

Sources of ceramide can be plant-derived, synthetic or from animals. Bovine ceramide is the typical source of ceramide used in moisturizers. Plant-derived ceramides which are phytoceramides is what I use in my practice. It contains these lipids which are extracted from plant seed oils.

Dr.TWL Radiance Fluide Hydrating Emulsion contains LARECEA™ Extract for regeneration and skin brightening ingredients for a dewy glow. It is specially formulated for a light-weight feel to impart a radiant glow without make-up. It also contains ceramide and grape seed oil, perfect for individuals with eczema and sensitive skin.

 

What ingredients should I avoid if I have sensitive skin? 

The ingredients that one should avoid when you have sensitive skin will be things like astringents, so any alcohol-based gel, toners or lotions should be avoided because these tend to dry up the skin further. In addition, irritating ingredients such as alpha hydroxy acids and salicylic acids are commonly used for the treatment of acne as well as for skin exfoliation, these will definitely trigger off skin sensitivity.

© 2020 TWL Specialist Skin and Laser Centre. All rights reserved.

—–

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Teo Wan Lin (@drteowanlin) on

 

Meet with Dr Teo Wan Lin, an accredited dermatologist at TWL Specialist Skin & Laser Centre, for a thorough consultation to determine the most suitable treatment for your skin.
To book an appointment with Dr Teo, call us at +65 6355 0522, or email appt@twlskin.com. Alternatively, you may fill up our contact form here.

Dermatologist Talks: How To Care For Combination Skin

January 7, 2020

Have you noticed that some parts of your skin are dry while other parts are oily? This is known as combination skin. Combination skin is characterized by an oily T-zone while the cheeks are either normal or dry. How to tell if you have combination skin? Wash your face with your normal cleanser, then wait an hour. If your T-zone is oily whereas your cheeks are either normal or dry, you have combination skin.

Combination skin is thought to be one of the most common skin types. When it comes to skincare routines, hydrating creams are too hydrating, oil-absorbing masks are too absorbing, balancing lotions never seem to do much balancing… It can be tricky to figure out how to care for your skin properly.

Dr. Teo Wan Lin is an accredited dermatologist and an expert on cosmeceutical skincare research and development. She is the author of  “Skincare Bible – Dermatologist’s Tips for Cosmeceutical Skincare”  which was published July 2019 by leading bookstores Barnes & Noble, Baker & Taylor and Apple Books and available in bookstores islandwide from January 2020. She heads up Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals, a specialist cosmeceutical skincare line with evidence-based active ingredients for anti-ageing and skin health. Its subsidiaries, the Pi- Cosmeceutical Custom Makeup Lab and the Conscious Mask Bar are part of the Conscious Concept Pharmacy launched in December featuring environmentally sustainable makeup and skincare materials. In this series “Dermatologist Talks” she shares her top tips on common skincare topics. In this article, she tells us the science behind combination skin – skin that is both dry and oily.

Skin that is both dry and oily boils down to an underlying pathology of the skin which is much more common in acne-prone individuals is known as seborrhea, which is overactivity of the oil gland. It is part of the causes of teenage and adult acne. Even when you have seborrhea, it is possible for you to have a deficiency in the ceramide content of your skin barrier leading to dry skin. The production of ceramide is genetically determined. You could have inherited both the genes for oily skin as well as dry skin. The commoner scenario we see would be someone with acne and oily skin who started using over the counter medication such as those that contain retinol or benzoyl peroxide and these will break down the skin barrier and it can result in the skin being dry, sensitive and acne-prone.

Individuals with combination skin often have breakouts over the greasy T-zone area. This can be exacerbated, in the case of some women, especially during the time of their monthly menstrual cycles. On the other hand, their cheek areas can be very dry and when they travel, especially when there is a change in climate, these areas can become dry, flaky and sensitive especially if they are using skincare that is slightly harsher on their skin.

The recommended skincare routine for combination skin should address both the oiliness of the T-zone, which can sometimes get quite uncomfortable especially in a humid climate like Singapore, as well as the potential dryness that may occur over the cheek areas. An important thing to note would be a gentle emulsifying cleanser is recommended for combination skin such as the Honey Cleanser. Honey itself is a natural emulsifier which means it produces foam without the need for strong chemical lathering agents such as the laureth sulfates. At the same time, it is a natural humectant which means that it traps moisture under the skin. As a result, it helps to balance out the production of sebum without over-stripping the skin of its natural oils.

From left to right: Hyaluronic Acid SerumVitamin C Serum, Radiance Fluide Hydrating Emulsion, Milk Cleanser, Honey Cleanser, SunProtector, Elixir-V Eyes, Mineral BoosterElixir-V Serum

Individuals with combination skin should focus on using hydrating serums such as Hyaluronic Acid Serum, Vitamin C Serum and Elixir-V Serum as these contain cosmeceutical active ingredients which function as treatment over their T-zone to regulate oil production.

 Also, use hydrating emulsions rather than creams, the former is an oil in water mixture rather than a pure cream formula. This helps to moisturize the skin without the cream becoming too thick or greasy. Finally, the excess grease over the T-zone can be addressed with the use of blotting papers (such as those infused with active ingredients like cannabis sativa). These blotting papers are infused with cannabis sativa, an extract of the hemp plant which helps to moisturize the skin and regulate oil production, at the same time physically removing excess grease over the T-zone. One should follow with a hydrating mist such as the Mineral Booster which helps to regulate the skin barrier.

© 2020 TWL Specialist Skin and Laser Centre. All rights reserved.

Dermatologist Talks: The Ideal Skincare Routine

December 28, 2019

Dr. Teo Wan Lin is an accredited dermatologist and an expert on cosmeceutical skincare research and development. She is the author of  “Skincare Bible – Dermatologist’s Tips for Cosmeceutical Skincare”  which was published July 2019 by leading bookstores Barnes & Noble, Baker & Taylor and Apple Books and available in bookstores islandwide from January 2020. She heads up Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals, a specialist cosmeceutical skincare line with evidence-based active ingredients for anti-ageing and skin health. Its subsidiaries, the Pi- Cosmeceutical Custom Makeup Lab and the Conscious Mask Bar are part of the Conscious Concept Pharmacy launched in December featuring environmentally sustainable makeup and skincare materials.

 

Many beauty writers have asked me what the ideal skincare routine should be, for today’s busy woman. Is there even such a routine? I have outlined the following— which are frequently asked questions posed by readers and my patients. In the following article, I plan to outline, in a scientific manner the way I have structured my own skincare routine. I recommend this also for my own patients and readers. It is important to learn how to efficiently apply cosmeceuticals as well as to understand the scientific basis for such a routine.

 

Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals is a dermatologist formulated cosmeceutical skincare range that is produced in a EUROISO22716 manufacturing facility, the gold standard in skincare manufacturing. The Dr.TWL Research and Development Team includes chemists working under the supervision of a pharmaceutical engineer and an accredited Singapore dermatologist.

 

Why do I need to have a different skincare routine in the morning or night? 

Skincare routines recommended by dermatologists contain cosmeceutical active ingredients which help to repair and rejuvenate skin via topical absorption. Day skincare routines should include active ingredients like plant based anti-oxidants to actively fight photoaging due to sun exposure, cosmetic enhancers that can double up as skincare makeup. Dr.TWL develops a range of colour correction concealers to use with skin tone concealers for daytime use, they function as skincare that’s also makeup. They are infused with a cosmeceutical oligopeptide base— these function as makeup with pigments to cancel out redness, blemishes, pigmentation spots and sallowness, as well as skincare to treat and heal these problem areas.

Difference between Day and Night Cosmeceutical Actives

  1. Night- Cosmeceutical Actives

Some ingredients, such as retinols or retinoids cause sunsensitivity and should only be used at night and not in the day, due to the potential of sun exposure. Skin repairing ingredients such as phytoantioxidants, as well as ceramide based moisturisers (which tend to be thicker formulations, unsuitable for day time) help to regenerate the skin during the sleep cycle, which is an important time for cellular rest and repair.

  1. Day Cosmeceutical Actives        

Vitamin C serum, for example, is a potent antioxidant that should be incorporated in the daytime routine(and night as well) especially because it helps to actively fend of the free radical formation due to sun-induced ageing (photoaging). Same goes for phyto(plant-derived) antioxidants.

  1. Texture of product 

Daytime routines should include a gentle cleanser to remove debris, brighten and prep skin for absorption, minimum vitamin C based cosmeceutical, a moisturiser and sunscreen.  The texture of all these products should be as “light” as possible while fulfilling the function of delivering the active ingredients, because wearing heavy creamy thick products on the face disturbs application of makeup and gives a greasy look in our humid climate. The priority of daytime skincare would be to give the user the feel of the product being instantly absorbed and as invisible on skin as possible.

  1. Cleansing differences between day and night

For normal to dry skin- gentle milk cleansing is recommended in the morning, to fulfil the function of removing debris, oil and residual skincare products overnight.  For oily, acne-prone skin, an emulsifying cleanser helps to remove excessive oil and to prep skin for absorbing skincare. Night cleansing for those who wear makeup is a double cleanse— oil-soluble makeup pigments have to be dissolved in an oil or micellar formula, while the residue should be removed in a lathering(foaming) formula. Double cleansing is especially important for those with combination or oily skin.

Are there any products reserved for day-time use or night-time use? 

Depends on the active ingredients— as above, if it contains retinols or its derivatives it would be sun-sensitising and should only be used at night, same with any topical cosmeceutical ingredients with the potential for skin irritation, these should be reserved at night.  For daytime- plant derived anti-oxidants and vitamin C help to stave off photoaging by fighting free radical formation.

What are the products you would recommend for a day-time skincare routine?

Cleanser, hyaluronic acid based serumvitamin C serum, emulsion based moisturiser (for Singapore’s humid climate), SPF 50 broad spectrum sunblock 

What are the products you would recommend for a night-time skincare routine?

Double cleansing with an emulsion cleanser for makeup removal and a gentle cleanser thereafter, an antioxidant serum ( such as containing Resveratrol, vitamin C, phytoantioxidants) and a moisturiser containing ceramide.

Some dermatologists are known to recommend sunscreen-use at night. Would you say you agree? Why?  

I do not think it is necessary nor practical. Sunscreen is meant to protect against the damaging UV rays, which can cause sun induced  photoaging and skin cancers. Sunscreens tend to contain some oil- based solvents and sleeping in it will cause stains on pillowcases.

Will having a separate day-time and night-time routine have a significant positive impact on your complexion?  

I would say having evidence based cosmeceutical active ingredients in your regimen is the key determinant of the efficacy of a routine. It is important to respect that certain ingredients as above are best incorporated  into either a morning or nighttime routine due to its innate functions to maximise benefits and reduce side effects.

Transdermal drug delivery: the forefront of smart skincare

December 14, 2019

skincare, smart skincare, transdermal

Dr. Teo Wan Lin is an accredited dermatologist and an expert on cosmeceutical skincare research and development. She is the author of “Skincare Bible – Dermatologist’s Tips for Cosmeceutical Skincare” which was published July 2019 by leading bookstores Barnes & Noble, Baker & Taylor and Apple Books and available in bookstores islandwide from January 2020. She heads up the Pi- Cosmeceutical Custom Makeup Lab and the Conscious Mask Bar.

 

Masking

Is masking actually more effective than simply applying a thick layer of moisturiser? While both moisturisers and overnight masks are formulated with leave-in ingredients rather than those that require you to rinse off, such as cleansers or exfoliators, overnight masks encourage the user to distribute a liberal amount of product onto the skin, whereas people often skimp on the moisturiser. In her book, The Skincare Bible, dermatologist Dr Teo Wan Lin writes that the efficacy of masks all depends on the concentration, type, preservative and vehicle of the active ingredients. When selecting a mask to deliver moisture, Dr. Teo suggests looking out for glycerin, ceramide, plant-derived antioxidants and hyaluronic acid 

Dr. Teo never recommends clay or astringent masks to anyone – even those with super oily skin – “it may give the feeling of your skin being clean but first of all, it will never cure the problem of acne or oily skin because it is the underlying inflammation that needs to be stopped in acne. Astringents such as salicylic acid, alcohol – which are present in these clay masks – and even calamine, which is a natural mineral that absorbs moisture and oil, will only temporarily give you a squeaky clean feeling. Subsequently [using these masks] can lead to, number one, skin irritation in the form of eczema, or even cause a condition called Reactive Seborrhea whereby you produce even more oil because your skin is feeling dehydrated, so this is a paradoxical reaction.” In Dr. Teo’s opinion, the most helpful mask for skin would be “one that delivers moisture as well as active cosmeceutical ingredients.” With these moisturising masks, there are no issues with leaving them on for longer than the recommended amount of time. Says Dr. Teo, “when I say to leave it on for a minimum of 15-30 minutes it’s really because of the principle of wet wrap. When your skin is in contact with a damp surface, whatever is on the skin will also be absorbed much easier.” 

It can be frustrating to try a multitude of different products – all of which don’t achieve anything beyond superficial results. Sometimes it isn’t the product, but the delivery method. Due to the impervious nature of the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin, applying topical formulations is not enough to create lasting results due to the inability for topicals to penetrate past the first few layers of the skin. This isn’t to say that all topical formulations are useless in skincare, but their limitations are often overlooked. Some of these shortcomings can be solved by using transdermal drug delivery to administer the product.   

When it comes to allowing active ingredients to pass through the stratum corneum and penetrate deeper layers to optimise the effectiveness of cosmeceuticals, transdermal drug delivery is at the forefront of “smart skincare”.  Some things to consider when selecting the appropriate polymeric materials for a transdermal delivery system are: bio and chemical compatibility with the drug, shelf life and effectiveness of delivery. By selecting the appropriate material, the active ingredient is able to diffuse through the membrane at a set rate – a rate controlled by the composition and thickness of the membrane (Kandavilli, Nair, Panchagnula). 

transdermal, skincare, smart skincare, mask

QRASER™ Transdermal absorption patch

While developing the QRASER™ Transdermal Absorption Patch, Dr. Teo and lead chemical engineer Mr. Teo Zhi Liang sought to optimise the delivery and absorption of cosmeceuticals so users could maximise the effects of topical formulations. The QRASER™ Transdermal Absorption Patch, part of the Dr. TWL Biomaterials range, enables cosmeceuticals to penetrate past the first few layers of the skin and allows bio-active ingredients to be released at a consistent rate. It uses polymer technology to create a microenvironment that imitates the skin’s natural hydration state, thus allowing cosmeceuticals to pass through the often impervious barrier. QRASER™ Polymer Patch employs a matrix system of transdermal delivery consisting of two polymeric layers: a backing that prevents the loss of active ingredients and a layer that doubles as an adhesive and rate-controlling membrane. By using this transdermal drug delivery system, the cosmeceutical is able to enter the microenvironment and target fibroblasts, the cells responsible for healing wounds. Pair it with Vita C Gold™ Serum, Elixir-V™ Recovery SerumRadiance Fluide™ Sleeping Mask for optimal results. In addition to enhancing the absorption of cosmeceuticals, QRASER™ Polymer Patch can also be used alone. The product encourages collagen production and speeds up the skin’s recovery process. The increase in healthy collagen reduces fine lines and wrinkles, thus creating an “anti-aging” effect.  

The QRASER™ Transdermal Absorption Patch is available in five unique cuts to cater to individual concerns: Smile Lines,  Eye bags/Undereye wrinkles, Crow’s Feet, frown lines or a custom cut

MoistureMax™ Skin healing polysaccharide facial mask

The MoistureMax™ Skin-Healing polysaccharide facial mask was developed by the Dr. TWL Biomaterials research team. Created in an ISO certified biotechnology laboratory, the mask employs a patent pending skin biocompatible polysaccharide membrane technology. At the Dr.TWL Mask Bar, counterpart to the popular Dr.TWL Lip Lab, patients can have masks cut to fit their unique facial contours and work with experts to create customised cosmeceutical treatment vials to be used in conjunction with the mask sheets. The mask’s porous structure allows for the delayed release of cosmeceuticals overnight by storing the active ingredients in mini-reservoirs within the mask. The mask is suitable for sensitive skin, including those with Eczema and Rosacea, and despite it being a 100% preservative, additive and chemical free product, the mask can be reused up to five times when stored under proper conditions. For optimal results, Dr. Teo suggests pairing it with the Radiance Fluide™ Sleeping Mask for moisturising and Amino Acid 360° Mask for anti-aging; finish with the MULTI-CERAM™ cream for skin repair.  

The Conscious Concept Mask Bar by Dr.TWL Pharmacy launches 12 December 2019 focussing on advanced eco-conscious materials engineering for improving skin absorption of skincare ingredients. Find out more here

Cosmeceutical Makeup – Dermatologist Recommended Concealers for Anti-Ageing

November 9, 2019

Custom beauty? You have probably heard this term recently, with the launch of multiple custom skincare lines. Fresh off the press for us at Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals though, is our new division of Custom Cosmeceutical Makeup. Read on in the first of a 2-part interview with our founder, accredited dermatologist Dr. Teo Wan Lin

What was the inspiration behind the Pi- π Cosmeceutical Custom Makeup Lab? Check out this interview with our founder Dr. Teo Wan Lin to find out more.

 

Dr.TWL Dream Concealer comes in a range of colours including peach, pink, green, lilac, and orange to correct underlying skin concerns.

Dr.TWL Dream Concealer in various colors to correct skin concerns.

What is the Pi-π Cosmeceutical Custom Makeup Lab about?

ThePi- π Cosmeceutical Custom Makeup Lab offers scientifically created skin-tone matched cosmeceutical makeup, including colour correction concealers, as an extension of my established skincare arm, Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals. Our Flagship offering includes an in-house Dr.TWL Lip Lab which features a 100% edible, anti-ageing cosmeceutical, the LipSerum Stick™, which is a solid state lipstick customised to any shade you want! Our advanced colour science system recommends different shades of each color- pinks, berrys, reds, nudes and corals that would uniquely flatter different skin tones.

Why does makeup— including concealers, foundations, lipsticks— need to be customised? Why not a generic “works for all” product, like most mass produced brands?

Why a generic “works for all” product is not ideal for makeup is because of the variety and uniqueness of skin tones. Every individual’s skin tones is different—based on our scientific database, we have on record at least 100 shades of distinct skin tones, whereas most makeup brands have at most 6 or 7 colour shades for foundations and concealers. This variation in skin tones translates into different shades of each lipstick colour that would work ideally for each individual.

What are the advantages of the LipSerum Stick, compared to store bought lipsticks, other than the fact it can be customised to any colour?

Store bought lipsticks cause allergies in individuals with existing lip conditions like eczema and cheilitis. The lips are also one of the first areas to suffer ageing related concerns such as lip discolouration, wrinkles and loss of volume. I then came up with the idea of a topically applied lip cosmeceutical serum with anti-ageing salmon roe DNA, which is also suitable for eczema sufferers, that could also be customised with your favourite lip pigment.

What are the limitations of traditional lipstick selections?

Lipstick brands have a limited selection of colours. Everyone has a favourite colour for a different mood—pinks, berrys, reds, nudes and corals— but did you know that different shades of each can be created to flatter different skin tones? We worked with veteran makeup artists and scientist to create the Dr.TWL Advanced Colour Science System to recommend the perfect lip colour match for each skin tone, whether you want it classic, sweet, sexy or nude.

What’s so unique about this custom makeup lab? Is it just custom blend makeup?

It’s the first dermatologist-led custom makeup laboratory in the world which fuses both skincare and makeup, via the use of cosmeceutical bases and unlimited variations of colours for foundationsconcealerscolour correctors to match every skin tone, via our Advanced Colour Science System developed by our team of scientists, in consultation with veteran makeup artists. It’s not just custom blended for you, it’s cosmeceutical base is adjusted to target underlying skin conditions such as pigmentation, blemishes and ageing.

What was your inspiration for the Custom Cosmeceutical Makeup Lab?

My patients who I treat for a variety of skin conditions such as acnepigmentationrosacea, eczema and sensitive skin. There is a lack of sensitive-skin compatible makeup for these patients who need coverage and camouflage during the skin healing process. Besides, Singapore has a diverse ethnic mix which includes darker skin tones that many makeup brands do not cater for. I treat a lot of darker skin toned patients in my practice who cannot find their perfect foundation/concealer match.

What were some of the problems with the mass market makeup products that you faced?

Previously, I would recommend patients with sensitive skin/eczema issues to use pure mineral makeup, which has the lowest risk for causing skin irritation and allergies, as pure mineral pigments are chemically stable/inert with no reactions. However, I soon realised that the these commercial brands also had additives such as bismuth oxychloride and talc which function as bulking agents, and these were irritating to skin, with some even reporting that they felt the texture was that of “cut glass”!
Here’s how to get your hands on our custom cosmeceutical makeup. By online appointment booking https://drtwlderma.com/customised-lip-lab-experience/ to be guaranteed of no-wait time. Walk ins are also welcome at our on-site Custom Cosmeceutical Makeup Lab located as part of my dermatology practice — TWL Specialist Skin & Laser Centre at Royal Square Novena Medical Suites.
Both the Dream Concealer Colour Correctors and LipSerum Stick™ can be purchased ready to wear or via full customisation appointment. Our website is fully integrated with our online Magic Mirror tool which allows one to try on your chosen lip colour wherever you are.

 

© 2019 TWL Specialist Skin & Laser Centre. All rights reserved.

Top 5 Harmful Chemicals in Your Makeup and Other Beauty Products

October 15, 2019

Skin irritation? Breakouts? Allergies? Think it may be due to bad diet and unhealthy lifestyle? Or maybe because of your dirty beddings or perhaps pollution? All of that may be possible contributors to your unlikely skin concerns but have you ever wondered that maybe the problem could be in the makeup that you use?

 

 

Makeup is all fun and games until you learn about the risk it comes with using them. If using makeup products is part of your daily routine, then it is important to know about what you put on your skin! Did you know that the average woman ingests about 6 tons of lipstick in her lifetime? You may not notice because you don’t literally eat your lipstick, but every time lipstick gets unto your teeth, or whenever it transfers on to your food when you eat, the main thing is it’s now down your tummy! So before anything else, it’s now time to question on whether or not the products that you use are safe for you.

You may be reading the ingredient list of your makeup products but do you think that’s all it is? Some companies hide “certain substances” or mask it under deceptive titles. Others may have listed them, but what’s lacking is that there is not enough information on the potential harm it may cause for their consumers.

 Certain ingredients used in the production of makeup and cosmetics can cause more harm than benefits and these can cause problems that may put your health at serious risk. Issues related to the use of products with these harmful ingredients may associate with skin allergies, cancer, weakened immunity, and more.

“For patients who suffer from sensitive skin and allergies, it’s often a vicious cycle with makeup products which are used for concealing the skin imperfections, and the same preservatives and ingredients in these products cause an exacerbation of the underlying skin condition,” says accredited dermatologist Dr. Teo Wan Lin.

How about for those without skin problems? Dr. Teo says, “Makeup is in direct contact with skin, and as skincare can deliver benefits to skin via topical absorption, makeup can also be used as a means to improve the health of the skin when it is incorporated with cosmeceutical active ingredients as an anti-ageing formula— while at the same time offering concealing of imperfections, which can improve individuals’ self-esteem. For products applied to mucosal areas such as the eyes and lips, it’s worthwhile to switch to pure mineral colorants in cosmeceutical bases because these are sensitive areas that are prone to irritation, and have thinner skin that will cause any harmful substances to be directly absorbed.”

 We have listed down below the Top 5 harmful chemicals that are used in the production, preservation, and manufacturing of makeup products that you may be using everyday. Guess what, these ingredients don’t have to be present in your makeup— if you switch to mineral makeup for the eyes and lips!

 

 1. Phthalates

 This chemical is most commonly found in perfumes, colour cosmetics, nail polish, and hair care products. Phthalates are linked to endocrine disruption, developmental and reproductive toxicity, and cancer. Phthalates may be labeled as phthalate, DEP, DBP, DEHP and “fragrance”. Some companies intentionally exclude this on their ingredients list. Products that list “fragrance” on the label should be avoided to prevent possible exposure to phthalates.

References:

http://www.safecosmetics.org/get-the-facts/chemicals-of-concern/phthalates/

 

2. Paraben

Paraben…paraben… One of the most famous ingredients for makeup. Though you may not know much about this chemical, you’ve probably heard about this already because you may have previously encountered the term “paraben-free” on some beauty products and wonder what does it mean. Parabens are preservatives used in a wide variety of personal care products and foods to prevent the growth of microbes. Parabens are not water soluble and can penetrate the skin. As a result, repeated application of a product or multiple products containing parabens could mean almost continuous exposure. These endocrine-disrupting chemicals can be absorbed through skin, blood and the digestive system.

Effect of Paraben: causes endocrine dysfunction, interferes with male reproductive functions, and can lead to rapid skin ageing and DNA damage.

 Paraben may be labeled as ethylparaben, butylparaben, methylparaben, propylparaben, isobutylparaben, isopropylparaben, and other ingredients ending in –paraben.

References:

http://www.safecosmetics.org/get-the-facts/chemicals-of-concern/parabens/

 

3. Lead

Lead has continuously been a very controversial component of lipstick. But did you know that it is often used in makeup foundation and whitening toothpaste as well? High levels of lead may pose a very serious risk on our health and studies have shown that there is no safe amount of lead exposure as though even at small amounts, lead can be very dangerous. Medical experts are clear that any level of lead exposure is unhealthy. The FDA or Food and Drug Administration has been determined to limit the usage of lead in lipstick and in a variety of other cosmetics. Read here.

 Exposure to lead has been linked to a host of health concerns:

  • Neurotoxicity: It has been linked to learning, language and behavioral problems.
  • Reduced fertility in both men and women
  • Hormonal changes and menstrual irregularities
  • Delayed onset of puberty in girls and development of testes in boys.

References:

http://www.safecosmetics.org/get-the-facts/regulations/us-laws/lead-in-lipstick/

 

4. Asbestos

 Talc is used as an ingredient in face powders, blush, and eyeshadows. The incorporation of asbestos in talc is due to poor regulations involving cosmetic-grade talc, which is also known as talcum powder. Talc and asbestos are minerals that form together. That means talc mined for commercial uses can be contaminated with asbestos — a known cause of lung cancer and mesothelioma. Before purchasing any product that has talc, make sure it is labeled as asbestos-free. Health concerns of asbestos may include skin irritation, cancer, organ system toxicity.

References:

https://www.asbestos.com/products/makeup/

http://www.safecosmetics.org/get-the-facts/chemicals-of-concern/talc/

 

5. Butylated Compounds (BHA, BHT)

 Mainly used for preservation of our beauty products and personal care products such as moisturizer, lip products, hair products, makeup, sunscreen, antiperspirant/deodorant, fragrance, creams. Butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) and butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) are chemicals are linked to several health concerns including endocrine disruption and organ-system toxicity.

Don’t get fooled by this because butylated compounds are also used as preservatives in food like meats, sausage, poultry, baked goods, beer, etc.

References:

http://www.safecosmetics.org/get-the-facts/chemicals-of-concern/butylated-compounds/

 

We have no control over the ingredients or manufacturing of the mass market makeup available in the market, but is that where custom blend mineral makeup can perhaps fill a need? “Custom blend mineral makeup has its advantages especially for eye and lip makeup because pure minerals are utilised. The eyelid and lip area are high-risk locations and naturally have thinner and more sensitive type of skin—known as mucosal skin. “ says Dr. Teo, who remarks that she has been seeing an increasing number of patients in her practice with eyelid and lip eczema, often triggered by makeup products such as mascara, eyelash extensions and lipsticks.

Especially if the sources are clearly labelled and audited, the risk of manufacturing contamination for sensitive products such as lipsticks and eye shadows, which is of the highest concerns to regulatory authorities like the FDA and HSA as well, due to the risk of ingestion and absorption, is eliminated. “When produced in smaller batches, custom blended mineral makeup is preservative free and avoids the problems of lead contamination in mass market manufacturing, which is important in lip products because of the lead content which is inevitably ingested.” Dr. Teo says.

How does one avoid getting these toxic chemicals incorporated into your daily routine? Also, isn’t it time that skincare is infused into makeup, since both are applied for long hours on the skin? Head over here to get your hands on cosmeceutical make-up.

Dr. TWL Dream Concealer™

ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

[Pigment]

100% Mineral Pigments Without Bulking Agents

Bismuth Oxychloride(BMO)/Talc-free

FDA Eye/Lip Approved

[Cosmeceutical Base]

Oligopeptides [Lifting][Repair]

Niacinamide [Brightening]

LARECEA™ Extract [Regeneration]

PEACH Covers dark circles on light skin 

ORANGE Cancels dark circles brown spots on medium to deep skin 

PALE PURPLE Conceal brown spots on light skin dullness 

PURPLE Brightens/Neutralizes dull yellow on medium skin 

PINK Brightens/Neutralizes dull yellow on light skin 

BLUE Neutralizes sallowness & hyperpigmentation on fair skin 

YELLOW Cancels purple/blue tones Corrects mild redness 

GREEN Neutralizes redness/pimples 

Eczema Management with Multi-CERAM Moisturiser

September 21, 2019

In patients with Eczema, there is an inherent defect of the epidermal barrier of the skin. When this barrier is compromised, bacteria and allergens are able to enter and thus there is an increased risk of secondary infections, which, in turn, can lead to aggravation of eczematous symptoms. 

It is believed that the best way to manage eczema is to repair the skin barrier or prevent its dysfunction. 

According to accredited dermatologist Dr Teo Wan Lin  who is an expert on sensitive skin and eczema, “I formulated the Dr Twl Dermaceuticals Multi-CERAM™ Moisturiser after years of prescribing other brands of ceramide-containing moisturisers which I found did not meet the underground clinical needs of patients, at a competitive price point. The high cost of manufacturing ceramide-containing moisturisers lies in its reliance on synthetic sources of ceramide as well as bovine(cow derived) ceramide.”

“In the Dr Twl Dermaceuticals Multi-CERAM™ Moisturiser, which is very competitively priced with a high ceramide content, the novel focus and dermatological concept is on using multiple sources of ceramide for total skin lipid restoration, rather than just relying solely on the expensive synthetic and animal derived ceramide which results in low concentrations of ceramide being used in other moisturisers, or high price point which is prohibitive. In the Multi-CERAM™ Moisturiser, phytoceramides are used— these are plant seed oil derived sources of ceramide that directly repair the skin barrier. This is in addition to containing plant anti-oxidants which incidentally combat cellulite, large amounts of glycerin which functions as a humectant, preventing trans-epidermal water loss, as well as Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic acid), a natural component of the skin, for dermal hydration,” Dr. Teo says.

 

 

What are Ceramides?

Ceramides are lipids that are naturally found in the intercellular “mortar” within the outer layer of s the statue corneum. They make up 40-50% of the lipid component of the lamellar lipids and are integral to the function of the epidermal barrier. 

In patients with psoriasis, eczema and other dry skin conditions, reduced levels of Ceramides are observed. 

 

 

 

The stratum corneum is comprised of corneocytes compressed within a lipid bilayer, which is made up of 40-45% Ceramides, 25% Cholesterol & 10-15% Free Fatty Acids. If incorporated in the wrong ratio, barrier repair may be impeded. These 3 major components of the stratum corneum bind the protein-rich corneocytes into a water impermeable protective barrier. A deficiency in Ceramides results in excessive transepidermal water loss, dry skin and increased permeability to environmental irritants, allergens and microorganisms. Thus, reduced levels of Ceramides is associated with dermatological disorders such as atopic dermatitis. 

Studies show that if topical ceramides is applied in the correct ratio with cholesterol and free fatty acids, it can help to improve the epidermal barrier in people with Atopic Dermatitis (AD), thereby reinforcing barrier function. Therefore, ceramide-dominant moisturisers and cleansers have been proven to provide substantial relief from the symptoms of eczema. 

The 3:1:1 Ceramide Dominant Molar Ratio

In order for ceramide-containing products to have a positive effect on the barrier function. The optimal ratio is 3:1:1, with Ceramides being the most abundant. Any variations in this ratio may hinder the recovery of the skin barrier. Not all topical ceramide products are the same — our Multi-CERAM Moisturiser have unique formulations which have been designed to ensure the delivery of an optimal ceramide, cholesterol and free fatty acid ratio. 

The Dr. TWL Dermaceuticals Multi-CERAM Moisturiser helps to support ceramide synthesis whilst reinforcing the skin barrier.

The Multi-CERAM™ Moisturiser contains: 

  • Ceramide 1 (EOP) which is significantly deficient in eczema patients and Ceramide 3 (NP) which is linked to the transepidermal water loss experienced in eczema patients. 
  • Phytoceramides which aids the repair of skin barrier 
  • Sodium Hyaluronate for skin hydration
  • Ceramide complex (ceramides, cholesterol & FFA) which delivers ceramides topically in the optimal 3:1:1 molar ratio to aid in the reinforcement of the recovery of the skin barrier. 

Management for patients with Eczema 

A daily maintenance routine is vital. One of the main changes in eczema is a disruption and reduction in the layers of corneocytes in the stratum corneum. When the stratum corneum is well hydrated, it swells, allowing increased permeability of topical formulations. The key to managing eczema is through the regular use of a moisturiser with high ceramide content after showering or washing hands. 

Successful management requires a holistic approach:

  1. Avoid triggering factors 
  2. Maintain skin care through regular use of a moisturiser and a moisturising cleanser 
  3. Pharmacotherapy during acute exacerbations
  4. Compliance of skin care products suggested by a dermatologist

 

More Eczema-related articles here:

Top Eczema Tips & Treatment by a Singapore Dermatologist – Eczema…Staying free of this treatable condition at any age

3 Ways on How To Prevent Premature Ageing

September 20, 2019

The ageing process is different for each person, but there are certain signs of ageing that are considered “premature” if you notice them before you turn 35. Our environment and lifestyle choices can cause our skin to age prematurely. We will discuss here 3 ways on how to prevent premature ageing.

1.) Never skip your sunscreen.

The sun emits a type of energy known as the ultraviolet radiation. There are 2 types of UV radiation— UVA rays which is mainly the culprit behind Premature Ageing (wrinkles, dark spots, and sagging skin) while UVB rays is responsible for sunburn, and both contribute to skin cancer.

One way to protect your skin from premature ageing and of course skin cancer is to wear a sunscreen that has SPF and is broad-spectrum.

SPF only measures protection against UVB so it’s important to wear a ‘broad spectrum’ sunscreen which blocks both UVA and UVB.

The fix: Shield, repair, and brighten your skin from the harmful sun rays with Dr. TWL Dermaceuticals SunProtector™️

✔️ SPF50/PA+++

✔️ Broad Spectrum

Contains Collagen Hydrosylate for skin regeneration, Oligopeptides for skin repair, and Portulaca Oleracea Extract for skin soothing.

Get yours here.

 

2.)  Don’t drag your skin when applying skincare/makeup products.

Our skin is very delicate and we want to avoid excessively tugging it whenever we apply our skincare or makeup products because this can cause our skin to show early signs of ageing. Mishandling of the skin especially around our eyes like aggressive removal of eye makeup and heavily dragging eye care products and any other skincare product unto our skin can cause eye wrinkles, crow’s feet, and other skin irritations.

The fix: Use your ring finger in applying your skincare/makeup products. Our ring finger is said to have the lightest touch and it distributes an equal amount of pressure when used upon the skin.

Using a Jade Roller is also proven effective in applying skincare products like serum and cream for complete absorption while lifting our skin.

Try the Dr.TWL Rose Quartz Jade Roller here.

 

3.) Use products with anti-ageing cosmeceutical base.

The term cosmeceutical, according to the dictionary, is defined as a cosmetic that has or is claimed to have medicinal properties, especially anti-ageing ones.

Cosmeceuticals are currently used for adjunct treatment of skin conditions, as well as for anti-ageing. Dermatologist incorporates these evidence-based active ingredients for skin healing into makeup.

Here are some active ingredients for anti-ageing

– Phytoceramides

– DNA from salmon roe

– Oligopeptides

The fix: For skincare, try Dr.TWL’s Oligopeptide Anti-Wrinkle Vegetal Capsules.

 

For your makeup base, try the Dr.TWL CellTalk™️ Cosmeceutical CC Cream.

 

Colour and pamper your lips with the Dr.TWL LipSerum™️ Stick — contains Salmon Roe DNA and Phytoceramides for anti-wrinkling of the lips.

 

error: Copyright © 2017 twlskin.com. All rights reserved.