Tag Archive: best dermatologist

Best Dermatologist Tips on How to Treat Your Neck Lines

March 12, 2020

 

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Dr. Teo Wan Lin is an accredited dermatologist and an expert on cosmeceutical skincare research and development. She is the author of  “Skincare Bible – Dermatologist’s Tips for Cosmeceutical Skincare”  which was published July 2019 by leading bookstores Barnes & Noble, Baker & Taylor and Apple Books and available in bookstores islandwide from January 2020. She heads up Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals, a specialist cosmeceutical skincare line with evidence-based active ingredients for anti-ageing and skin health. Its subsidiaries, the Pi- Cosmeceutical Custom Makeup Lab and the Conscious Mask Bar are part of the Conscious Concept Pharmacy launched in December featuring environmentally sustainable makeup and skincare materials. In this series “Dermatologist Talks” she shares her top tips on common skincare topics. In this article, she shares about the importance of taking care of your neck area.

 

Do neck creams differ from other anti-ageing products out there (for example, as compared to moisturiser)?

In terms of the composition of neck creams vs a very good moisturizer, for example, they do not differ very much. A lot of this, sadly, is due to marketing. But in terms of what is beneficial for anti-aging, the neck area is prone to lines and sagging with age. These can be concerns for aging women as well. Active ingredients that will help to target this should contain those that treat surface wrinkling such as antioxidants. Some brands use superficial chemical peel acids such as alpha-hydroxy and beta-hydroxy acids. That, together with retinol, does help with surface wrinkling, and these are all over-the-counter ingredients. However, in my experience, it tends to cause a bit of skin sensitivity. The formulations I look for would thus be those that contain more moisturizing ingredients such as ceramide. Our MultiCERAM™ Moisturiser is an ultra intensive skin moisturiser for total skin barrier repair with pharmaceutical grade ingredients featuring phytoceramides. For the wrinkle component, I use in my personal formulation, in our Radiancé Fluide™ Hydrating Emulsion which is also meant for use over the neck area, oligopeptides which have been discussed in dermatology literature as a good substitute for retinol or retinoids, which can be irritating over the long term. Essentially, what peptides do is that they mimic the cells’ DNA so that it stimulates collagen production and it is without the adverse effects. 

 

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Do you think there is a need to use neck cream in the first place?

I think it is absolutely essential because a lot of skincare regimens neglect the neck area. It is one of the first areas to show signs of aging with the lines and wrinkles. I have seen some patients who are older, who just focus on their face and neglect the neck, even with some protection, there is a very dramatic difference between their facial areas and neck area. It is important to bear in mind that our skin should be viewed in totality so it does not mean that you focus all anti-aging on the face. Your hands and neck area will also show all these signs of biological aging. If you are constantly just applying the cosmeceuticals on your face, you are neglecting other areas and a visible difference can be seen. 

 

What is the right age to start using neck cream?

Most dermatologists and plastic surgeons would agree that the aging process actively starts from age 25 onwards. You may wonder why a child or teenager exposed to the same stresses such as UV, pollution and mental stress, and aging does not take place until a certain age. The reason is because our body is empowered with these antioxidants abilities to fight free radicals that contribute to ageing of all our organs. After the age of 25, the research seems to indicate that all of these start to decline and that is why we need to amend the body’s response to the aging response by supplementing it with topical antioxidants. I think it is good practice for all men and women to start a proper cosmeceutical regimen for anti-aging, and including the neck area. You can use the same moisturizer as long as it is formulated correctly for the face and the neck area. If for example, somebody has already much more wrinkles on the neck than the face for whatever reason, I would add on something which is rather new, and I believe it is the only one in the Singapore market right now, would be a polymer patch. I have been using these polymer patches in my clinic for the last 6 months. It is known as a Qraser patch and it recreates the optimal environment for your skin to start stimulating more collagen formation from the inside. How this works is that it is a bio-mimetic material. It convinces your skin that it is super healthy by forming a micro-environment on the surface and it starts to generate more of its own collagen. We have one special cut out for the neck area.

 

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Is your neck more susceptible to signs of ageing as compared to your face, body, etc?

The neck area is not more susceptible but it tends to be an area that is very visible because of our clothing. For people who are always out in the sun, and are conscious of only using sunblock on their faces and limbs, and forget about their neck area, they will find that indeed, there is accelerated aging in that area. There are some individuals with neck eczema, which is a common sight for skin irritation, where their neck area may appear to age a bit faster than other parts of the body. It is what we called a flexural area, where there is skin to skin contact, like in obese people for example who are very prone to getting these neck folds and can develop fungal infections and eczema there as well.

Are there any specific neck creams in the market you’d recommend?

In terms of specific neck creams, I would say that a good moisturizer should have a few components to it. The first would be repairing the skin barrier itself. If your skin barrier is defective, it does not matter what anti-aging ingredients you have in there because your skin is just going to be dry. It is not going to look plump and elastic. Ceramide is the current state of technology for skin barrier restoration and it can be derived from two sources: Phytoceramide from plant seed oils and bovine ceramide (synthetic ceramide). The moisturizer that I personally prescribe in our clinic is manufactured by our pharmacy as a MultiCERAM™ Moisturiser and I always recommend that for the neck area. For anti-aging, the Radiancé Fluide™ Hydrating Emulsion which is fortified with oligopeptides and a plant extract LARECEA from Brassica oleracea which is a family of kale, broccoli and cauliflower, that is very effective for anti-aging. It is good to use retinol-free and AHA and BHA-free anti-aging formulation simply because the neck area is much more sensitive and you are perhaps more prone to getting eczema. 

 

What are the best ways to prevent your skin from ageing pre-maturely?

The take-home point is that for the neck area, if you are in doubt, just use a dermatologist-recommended moisturizer. Some anti-aging formulation that you use on the face contains retinol and when applied on the neck, you may develop sensitivity. Another important area of research now is using materials to increase the absorption of topicals. I personally would add that to my regimen. I think we are probably the only brand that is focusing on that right now. We have a polysaccharide material from plant root fibers which forms micro-reservoirs that release cosmeceuticals over a period of time and this is proven to increase the absorption of skincare. 

 

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The other thing would be the polymer patch. One of the best ways of preventing your skin from aging prematurely would be to have a good cosmeceutical regimen that is never like a one-step thing. In order for an active ingredient to be stable, it has to be sometimes formulated in a certain way and you can just combine everything into one and hope for the best. We also need to cleanse our skin. For the neck area, I would recommend cleansing with the same cleanser you use for your face and hopefully, it is a gentle one. 

 

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The second thing would be the application of serums such as the Vita C Gold Serum or Hyaluronic Acid Serum because serums are able to carry a high concentration of certain active ingredients. They are also readily-absorbed by the skin. 

 

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The third thing would be the application of a ceramide containing moisturizer that is also fortified with peptides and antioxidants. Finally, sun protection

 

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Meet with Dr Teo Wan Lin, an accredited dermatologist at TWL Specialist Skin & Laser Centre, for a thorough consultation to determine the most suitable treatment for your skin.
To book an appointment with Dr Teo, call us at +65 6355 0522, or email appt@twlskin.com. Alternatively, you may fill up our contact form here.

How To Treat Facial Pigmentation Melasma According To A Dermatologist- Do Home Remedies Work?

March 9, 2020

 

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Dr. Teo Wan Lin is an accredited dermatologist and an expert on cosmeceutical skincare research and development. She is the author of  “Skincare Bible – Dermatologist’s Tips for Cosmeceutical Skincare”  which was published July 2019 by leading bookstores Barnes & Noble, Baker & Taylor and Apple Books and available in bookstores islandwide from January 2020. She heads up Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals, a specialist cosmeceutical skincare line with evidence-based active ingredients for anti-ageing and skin health. Its subsidiaries, the Pi- Cosmeceutical Custom Makeup Lab and the Conscious Mask Bar are part of the Conscious Concept Pharmacy launched in December featuring environmentally sustainable makeup and skincare materials. In this series “Dermatologist Talks” she shares her top tips on common skincare topics. In this series of articles, she focuses on some FAQs of Melasma .

 

What is the difference between melasma and hyperpigmentation?

Pigmentation is the discoloration of the skin. Melasma and hyperpigmentation are causes of pigmentation. Melasma tends to be related to changes in hormones such as during pregnancy or after menopause. It is also closely related to genetics and sun exposure. We only use the term “hyperpigmentation” in the context of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation as a form of scarring following inflammation. Melasma itself is also distributed differently. It tends to appear in a butterfly-like configuration over the cheeks and sometimes spreading to the forehead. It also tends to be very symmetrical, even and diffused, whereas, hyperpigmentation is usually localized to the area of previous injury.

 

Is melasma curable?

A cure would mean a one-time treatment that causes all symptoms to go away forever. Most skin conditions are treatable but the underlying root cause has to do with the amount of environmental exposure such as sun exposure in one’s lifetime, genetics, as well as other factors such as hormones.

 

Do home remedies treat melasma?

Some home remedies that have been proposed to treat melasma are quite dangerous. Apple cider vinegar has been proposed as one of the solutions as it contains acetic acid which is proven by research to be effective in lightening skin pigmentation. However, the method and form of acetic acid in apple cider vinegar only causes skin irritation, the most severe form being irritant contact dermatitis or even facial eczema and chemical burn. 

The usage of aloe vera is unlikely to be harmful. However, many aloe vera products contain certain compounds such as alcohol that helps to maintain the product in a gel form. 

The key thing to understand about these DIY remedies is that while the source and raw ingredients may contain an active ingredient, proven to lighten pigmentation in laboratory studies, it is often not in the correct form for it to be effective on the skin. It can also cause severe irritant reactions that can causes pigmentation to worsen.

 

How should one treat melasma?

For melasma to be effectively treated, you have to use a combination of therapies. To me, the most effective treatment is a combination of the use of a q-switched laser, a 1064nm laser toning device, spaced at weekly intervals, together with topicals, such as hydroquinone to help remove underlying pigmentation, and cosmeceutical skincare. The Radiancé Fluide™ Hydrating Emulsion contains oligopeptides that help reduce the hyperpigmentation while increasing the function of the pigment removing cells. The Vitá C GOLD™ Serum contains nano-formulated sodium ascorbyl phosphate, a stable and effective derivative of Vitamin C, well known for its amazing ability to treat hyperpigmentation and photoageing. 

 

 

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Meet with Dr Teo Wan Lin, an accredited dermatologist at TWL Specialist Skin & Laser Centre, for a thorough consultation to determine the most suitable treatment for your skin.
To book an appointment with Dr Teo, call us at +65 6355 0522, or email appt@twlskin.com. Alternatively, you may fill up our contact form here.

How to get a smaller face according to a dermatologist- Does Golki Therapy work?

February 29, 2020

Do you dream of a slimmer face? Is a V-shaped face the ideal face? What are the ways you have heard of to achieve your dream face shape? 

A slim v-shaped baby face is often known as the ideal beauty in Asia. It has thought to be achievable only through plastic surgery. However, with the emergence of a new therapy known as Golki Therapy, many women aim to remodel the face and body through unique bone massage techniques to realign the bone structure. I have been interviewed by several magazines and media on how to achieve your ideal face shape and in the process have debunked many myths. In this article, I hope to shed some light on the safe and effective methods to achieve and maintain a V-shape facial structure. 

Dr. Teo Wan Lin is an accredited dermatologist and an expert on cosmeceutical skincare research and development. She is the author of  “Skincare Bible – Dermatologist’s Tips for Cosmeceutical Skincare”  which was published July 2019 by leading bookstores Barnes & Noble, Baker & Taylor and Apple Books and available in bookstores islandwide from January 2020. She heads up Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals, a specialist cosmeceutical skincare line with evidence-based active ingredients for anti-ageing and skin health. Its subsidiaries, the Pi- Cosmeceutical Custom Makeup Lab and the Conscious Mask Bar are part of the Conscious Concept Pharmacy launched in December featuring environmentally sustainable makeup and skincare materials. In this series “Dermatologist Talks” she shares her top tips on common skincare topics. In this article, she shares about a special Asian beauty trend – Golki Therapy.

 

What is one strange Asian beauty trend?

In terms of Asian beauty trends, I think what I find one of the strangest would be Golki therapy whereby the therapist actually uses a lot of manual force to reshape one’s facial bones. I obviously never experienced that but physiologically, it is incredibly brutal to have this sort of therapy where someone is literally attempting to fracture one’s facial bones in order to achieve a smaller face shape. I do not think it is possible for the therapist using any sort of method to actually reshape the bones in a single session. As our adult bones are not malleable (they are all calcified), what I have actually heard from people who have undergone that is that it is simply very painful. While I do not think it is very common to sustain a facial fracture from such a procedure, and indeed there is some sort of training program that these therapists undergo, I personally feel that one could be exposed to certain traumatic risks when undergoing this treatment. On top of skin bruising, it is also possible to have fat necrosis due to the extreme amount of force that is exerted on the face. If there is any sort of improvement from this treatment, it would not be coming from one’s facial bones but perhaps from the trauma of the entire experience, which I can imagine can only be extremely painful. I do not think that it is advisable or safe.

 

How do facials make your face smaller?

Our definition of facial has to shift from the traditional spa beautician mold whereby extractions and massages are performed to the medical equipment used in dermatologist offices. Something that does indeed help to slim the face and has evidence-based long-lasting results is a machine known as high-intensity focus ultrasound. What that does essentially is that it targets the SMAS (superficial muscular aponeurotic system) layer. It is best envisioned as the curtain rail where the layers of your skin (epidermis, dermis, subcutaneous fat) and the muscles are all hanging on this curtain rail. When you lift it up as indicated by high-intensity focus ultrasound where the technology targets, you will see a noticeable lifting and shaping of your face. This has nothing to do with your bone but it also does result in fat necrosis which causes some shaping of the face to make it look smaller. Facials, in the sense of the traditional facial massages, I think is of very limited value. 

 

What alternatives are there?

The trend should be moving towards devices that can be used at home and are models of technologies that we use in the office. For example, radiofrequency is something that is safe, and my team and I worked on an FDA-approved radiofrequency device last year known as the CollagenUp Wand. It helps to tighten the skin via action on the dermis. This can overall lead to increased collagen formation and shaping of the face with sustained use. 

 

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For Facial Gua Sha, it is a form of facial massage which aids in lymphatic drainage. Any form of facial massage can result in this. There have been studies that link an increased sense of well-being to massage practices. Massage itself is helpful because it increases blood circulation. By increasing blood flow, there is more nutrients and oxygenation that is delivered to the skin. Topically active ingredients such as cosmeceuticals can also be better absorbed. Using Dr.TWL’s Jade Roller before application of cosmeceuticals would increase the skincare absorption, leading to better effects on aging.

 

 

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High-intensity focused ultrasound (HIFU) is a noninvasive procedure for skin lifting and tightening. HIFU essentially causes the skin tissue cells to die based on a physiological process known as cell necrosis. This results in the subsequent reduction of bulkiness of the affected area being treated. Common areas that HIFU is used for treatment would be the jawline, the cheeks which leads to an aesthetically pleasant shaping and lifting effect. 

TWL Specialist Skin and Laser Centre helmed by accredited dermatologist Dr. Teo Wan Lin uses HIFU as a painless way to shape and lift your face with evidence based methods. This is sold in a full face bundle and used in conjunction with our cosmeceuticals, which penetrate the skin, and the Qraser polymer patch which helps to draw moisture to the top layer of skin, causing a multidimensional lifted effect.

Book a consultation with Dr Teo to determine the most suitable treatment for your skin.
To book an appointment with Dr Teo, call us at +65 6355 0522, or email appt@twlskin.com. Alternatively, you may fill up our contact form here.

How a Singapore Dermatologist treats Blackheads

February 24, 2020

 

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Dr. Teo Wan Lin is an accredited dermatologist and an expert on cosmeceutical skincare research and development. She is the author of  “Skincare Bible – Dermatologist’s Tips for Cosmeceutical Skincare”  which was published July 2019 by leading bookstores Barnes & Noble, Baker & Taylor and Apple Books and available in bookstores islandwide from January 2020. She heads up Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals, a specialist cosmeceutical skincare line with evidence-based active ingredients for anti-ageing and skin health. Its subsidiaries, the Pi- Cosmeceutical Custom Makeup Lab and the Conscious Mask Bar are part of the Conscious Concept Pharmacy launched in December featuring environmentally sustainable makeup and skincare materials. In this series “Dermatologist Talks” she shares her top tips on common skincare topics. In this article, she shares about the importance of taking care of your neck area.

 

Treatment of Blackheads

  1. How do I get rid of blackheads?

First and foremost, it is important to know what blackheads are and how they arise. Blackheads, the colloquial term for open comedones, are a type of acne caused by an overproduction of oil, and tend to cluster around areas like the nose. The buildup of keratin and oil around the follicle is oxidised and turns blackish because the oil itself is oxidised by air.

Open comedones are best treated with:

  • A mixture of chemical peels, containing salicylic acid, lactic and glycolic acids to control the oil production.
  • Carbon laser peels to help shrink oil glands and reduce production of oil.
  • Prescription creams, containing tretinoin, that accelerate skin regeneration.
  • Oral medication will be necessary for acne, and a medication known as isotretinoin, may be prescribed to help to shrink your oil glands, which has to be taken under close medical supervision.

I do not recommend manual extractions as they can cause more inflammation, infections, and scarring. I personally treat both open and closed (whiteheads) comedones using a specialised machine with a vacuum handpiece that gently extracts blackheads and whiteheads without pain or scarring, at the same time infusing a customised blend of fruit-based acids that exfoliate the skin. Last year, we launched the Dr.TWL SilkPeel Home Medi-Facial Kit with our biomaterials team.

 

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The device basically combines the microdermabrasion benefits that we use in our clinic with a very gentle chemical peel effect to increase the absorption of the cosmeceuticals. This allows for the physical removal of the debris from both open and closed comedones (ie. Blackheads and whiteheads), reducing the appearance of blackheads and preventing subsequent formation.

  1. How do I reduce the formation of blackheads?

A good cleanser is important. For cleansers, look for the labels ‘’dermatologist-tested and formulated’’ for maximum clinical efficacy. I personally use a cleanser based on medical-grade honey which I have partnered with a laboratory to formulate, it effectively cleanses away dirt, bacteria and grime, as honey is a naturally derived emulsifier, unlike chemical lathering agents, and also possesses antibacterial properties, without stripping away the skin’s natural oils. Overall, a good cleanser should leave the skin feeling clean (not squeaky clean though as this usually means overcleansing) and also still soft and moisturised. It’s a misconception to go for really ‘strong’ harsh cleansers because it generally strips the skin of all moisture with strong lathering agents like SLS (Sodium Laureth Sulfate) leaving the skin red and flaky while the acne problem doesn’t go away.

 

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  1. Do over-the-counter treatments work?

Nothing over the counter actually works well.

Pore strips help to physically remove the bits of keratin and oxidised oil but it tends to accumulate again and the problem recurs.

Products which contain salicylic acid usually have too low concentrations to be actually effective and higher concentrations can cause irritation.

Beware of traditional facial blotters to remove oil because it can cause the skin to paradoxically feel ‘dehydrated’ and the oil glands to produce even more oil to compensate. For patients with greasy skin in the day , it may help to just wash the grease off with a good cleanser rather than keep blotting. Either that, or use a fragrance/alcohol-free baby wipe to wipe off the grease before touching up makeup.

  1. How often should I go for treatments?

It depends on your skin condition. We recommend patients to firstly get their skin condition properly diagnosed by an accredited dermatologist, who would then subsequently recommend a regimen most suitable for them.

The Dangers of Dealing with Blackheads yourself

  1. Can you extract them at home?

Never pick your pimples or squeeze your blackheads (or whiteheads) as the bacteria on your fingers will cause infection, subsequently causing inflammation which may result in the formation of cystic acne.

Cystic acne is a severe form of acne which warrants specialist dermatologist care as it can leave terrible scars and can be secondarily infected leading to cysts and abscesses (collections of pus under the skin) if left untreated. See a dermatologist early, you definitely need oral medication and also may need a stronger form of anti-acne medication known as isotretinoin which helps to shrink your oil glands. Isotretinoin has to be taken under close medical supervision as it can have side effects on one’s liver and cholesterol levels.

Do not use scrubs with rough beady material as these only irritate the skin further besides being totally ineffective at removing blackheads, whiteheads and definitely can worsen cystic acne. Persistent acne is not normal and should be treated by an accredited dermatologist to avoid infections and scarring.

  1. What happens if you leave them be? Will they form pimples?

If you leave them alone, there is a chance of secondary infection in which these blackheads develop into active pimples. Otherwise, they remain as black dots on the skin which may be rather unsightly.

  1. Some people think by putting toner, you close the pores. Is this true? 

Toners with an alcohol base as an astringent draws water and oil out via an osmotic difference.  They may provide symptomatic relief right after application, where the skin feels dried up instantaneously and the appearance of blackheads is subdued due to the temporary removal of debris. However, over time, I find that this gives rise to a condition known as reactive seborrhea. The skin being subjected to these harsh agents, decides that it is dehydrated and paradoxically, produces even more oil. Hence, I did not include any toners in the skincare regimen I designed. Instead, my recommendation for people with oily, acne-prone skin with blackheads is the Miel Honey™ Cleanser: a very effective anti-bacterial, anti-grease cleanser which also leaves a moisturising barrier. Medical-grade honey has a humectant property, meaning it is able to trap water underneath the skin. Additionally, we developed a specialised type of blotting paper for people with severely oily skin to help with the removal of oily patches throughout the course of the day. Our Anti-Inflammatory Oil Blotting Linen contains an extract of Cannabis Sativa which helps to restore the skin barrier when it comes into contact with the skin’s oil. This is unlike traditional blotters which dehydrate the skin causing it to produce even more oil. Finally, the use of a very lightweight moisturiser throughout the day, such as our Mineral Booster™, helps to restore the natural equilibrium of the skin with the environment. Overall, I find this cosmeceutical regimen is more sustainable for someone who is looking to reduce the production of oil and the appearance of blackheads, especially when used in combination with topical prescriptive items.

Read more on the Top Acne Tips and Treatments here.

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How Argireline works for Anti-aging

February 5, 2020

 

 

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Dr. Teo Wan Lin is an accredited dermatologist and an expert on cosmeceutical skincare research and development. She is the author of “Skincare Bible – Dermatologist’s Tips for Cosmeceutical Skincare” which was published July 2019 by leading bookstores Barnes & Noble, Baker & Taylor and Apple Books and available in bookstores islandwide from January 2020. She heads up Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals, a specialist cosmeceutical skincare line with evidence-based active ingredients for anti-ageing and skin health. Its subsidiaries, the Pi- Cosmeceutical Custom Makeup Lab and the Conscious Mask Bar are part of the Conscious Concept Pharmacy launched in December featuring environmentally sustainable makeup and skincare materials. 

 

In recent years, the beauty and cosmetic industry has experienced a shift towards products which contain bioactive ingredients with the effects of medical drugs. Argireline-based dermal creams, lotions and ointments are among the emerging cosmeceuticals with promises for anti-wrinkle and anti-aging effects from the comfort of home, replacing the need for extensive botox, laser treatments and surgeries to achieve that youthful look.

What is argireline?

Argireline is an established and innovative product used in the cosmetic market as creams, lotions and ointments and is well-known for its anti-aging properties. It is a synthetic hexapeptide produced in the lab, which is composed of chains of amino acids and patterned from the N-terminal end of the protein SNAP-25

It inhibits the movement of facial muscles, allegedly improving skin texture and tone. Research suggests that Argireline may not penetrate deep enough into the skin to consistently provide benefits.

Argireline is a synthetic hexapeptide peptide that is patterned from the N-terminal end of the protein SNAP-25 and has been shown to reduce the degree of facial wrinkles. It is reported to inhibit vesicle docking by preventing formation of the ternary SNARE complex and by interfering in catecholamine release. The anti-wrinkle efficacy of argireline has not been studied in Chinese subjects.

 

How does argireline reduce the effects anti-aging?

Argireline reduces periorbital wrinkles and prevents the formation of skin lines in a similar way the botulinum toxin (Botox) works, by inhibiting neurotransmitter release at the neuromuscular junction. When argireline is applied to the skin, it is absorbed into the body and its chemical composition causes the facial muscles to contract with less force. This diminishes the appearance of wrinkles and can smooth out fine lines that appear with aging. Argireline-based creams can be quite effective, and in some cases, users of argireline-based serums can experience as much as a 30% reduction in fine lines and wrinkles.

A randomized, placebo-controlled study by Wang, Y. conducted in 2013 has also shown that argireline reduced the depth of the wrinkles with a total anti wrinkle efficiency of 48.9% in 60 patients. When the same test was performed on mice, there were notable improvements in the morphology of skin tissue and the amount of Type Ⅰ collagen fibers increased while the amount of type Ⅲ collagen fibers decreased.

The total anti-wrinkle efficacy in the group with patients tested with argireline was 48.9 % whereas the efficacy was 0 % in the placebo group. The parameters of roughness were all decreased in the argireline group, while no decrease was observed in the placebo group.

 

Dr. TWL’s Oligopeptide vegetal capsules contain argireline. With its clinically proven anti-aging properties, our Oligopeptide capsules relaxes facial tension lines resulting in less noticeable fine lines and wrinkles. 

 

References:

  1. Argireline. (2019, April 05). Retrieved from https://thedermreview.com/argireline/
  2. The anti-wrinkle efficacy of argireline, a synthetic hexapeptide, in Chinese subjects: a randomized, placebo-controlled study. Wang Y, Wang M, Xiao S, Pan P, Li P, Huo J. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2013 Apr;14(2):147-53. 
  3. The anti wrinkle efficacy of synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) in Chinese Subjects. Wang Y, Wang M, Xiao XS, Pan P, Li P, Huo J. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2013 Apr 22. 
  4. The study of cellular cytotoxicity of argireline – an anti-aging peptide. Grosicki M, Latacz G, Szopa A, Cukier A, Kieć-Kononowicz K. Acta Biochim Pol. 2014;61(1):29-32. Epub 2014 Mar 17.

Dermatologist Talks: The Ideal Skincare Routine

December 28, 2019

Dr. Teo Wan Lin is an accredited dermatologist and an expert on cosmeceutical skincare research and development. She is the author of  “Skincare Bible – Dermatologist’s Tips for Cosmeceutical Skincare”  which was published July 2019 by leading bookstores Barnes & Noble, Baker & Taylor and Apple Books and available in bookstores islandwide from January 2020. She heads up Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals, a specialist cosmeceutical skincare line with evidence-based active ingredients for anti-ageing and skin health. Its subsidiaries, the Pi- Cosmeceutical Custom Makeup Lab and the Conscious Mask Bar are part of the Conscious Concept Pharmacy launched in December featuring environmentally sustainable makeup and skincare materials.

 

Many beauty writers have asked me what the ideal skincare routine should be, for today’s busy woman. Is there even such a routine? I have outlined the following— which are frequently asked questions posed by readers and my patients. In the following article, I plan to outline, in a scientific manner the way I have structured my own skincare routine. I recommend this also for my own patients and readers. It is important to learn how to efficiently apply cosmeceuticals as well as to understand the scientific basis for such a routine.

 

Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals is a dermatologist formulated cosmeceutical skincare range that is produced in a EUROISO22716 manufacturing facility, the gold standard in skincare manufacturing. The Dr.TWL Research and Development Team includes chemists working under the supervision of a pharmaceutical engineer and an accredited Singapore dermatologist.

 

Why do I need to have a different skincare routine in the morning or night? 

Skincare routines recommended by dermatologists contain cosmeceutical active ingredients which help to repair and rejuvenate skin via topical absorption. Day skincare routines should include active ingredients like plant based anti-oxidants to actively fight photoaging due to sun exposure, cosmetic enhancers that can double up as skincare makeup. Dr.TWL develops a range of colour correction concealers to use with skin tone concealers for daytime use, they function as skincare that’s also makeup. They are infused with a cosmeceutical oligopeptide base— these function as makeup with pigments to cancel out redness, blemishes, pigmentation spots and sallowness, as well as skincare to treat and heal these problem areas.

Difference between Day and Night Cosmeceutical Actives

  1. Night- Cosmeceutical Actives

Some ingredients, such as retinols or retinoids cause sunsensitivity and should only be used at night and not in the day, due to the potential of sun exposure. Skin repairing ingredients such as phytoantioxidants, as well as ceramide based moisturisers (which tend to be thicker formulations, unsuitable for day time) help to regenerate the skin during the sleep cycle, which is an important time for cellular rest and repair.

  1. Day Cosmeceutical Actives        

Vitamin C serum, for example, is a potent antioxidant that should be incorporated in the daytime routine(and night as well) especially because it helps to actively fend of the free radical formation due to sun-induced ageing (photoaging). Same goes for phyto(plant-derived) antioxidants.

  1. Texture of product 

Daytime routines should include a gentle cleanser to remove debris, brighten and prep skin for absorption, minimum vitamin C based cosmeceutical, a moisturiser and sunscreen.  The texture of all these products should be as “light” as possible while fulfilling the function of delivering the active ingredients, because wearing heavy creamy thick products on the face disturbs application of makeup and gives a greasy look in our humid climate. The priority of daytime skincare would be to give the user the feel of the product being instantly absorbed and as invisible on skin as possible.

  1. Cleansing differences between day and night

For normal to dry skin- gentle milk cleansing is recommended in the morning, to fulfil the function of removing debris, oil and residual skincare products overnight.  For oily, acne-prone skin, an emulsifying cleanser helps to remove excessive oil and to prep skin for absorbing skincare. Night cleansing for those who wear makeup is a double cleanse— oil-soluble makeup pigments have to be dissolved in an oil or micellar formula, while the residue should be removed in a lathering(foaming) formula. Double cleansing is especially important for those with combination or oily skin.

Are there any products reserved for day-time use or night-time use? 

Depends on the active ingredients— as above, if it contains retinols or its derivatives it would be sun-sensitising and should only be used at night, same with any topical cosmeceutical ingredients with the potential for skin irritation, these should be reserved at night.  For daytime- plant derived anti-oxidants and vitamin C help to stave off photoaging by fighting free radical formation.

What are the products you would recommend for a day-time skincare routine?

Cleanser, hyaluronic acid based serumvitamin C serum, emulsion based moisturiser (for Singapore’s humid climate), SPF 50 broad spectrum sunblock 

What are the products you would recommend for a night-time skincare routine?

Double cleansing with an emulsion cleanser for makeup removal and a gentle cleanser thereafter, an antioxidant serum ( such as containing Resveratrol, vitamin C, phytoantioxidants) and a moisturiser containing ceramide.

Some dermatologists are known to recommend sunscreen-use at night. Would you say you agree? Why?  

I do not think it is necessary nor practical. Sunscreen is meant to protect against the damaging UV rays, which can cause sun induced  photoaging and skin cancers. Sunscreens tend to contain some oil- based solvents and sleeping in it will cause stains on pillowcases.

Will having a separate day-time and night-time routine have a significant positive impact on your complexion?  

I would say having evidence based cosmeceutical active ingredients in your regimen is the key determinant of the efficacy of a routine. It is important to respect that certain ingredients as above are best incorporated  into either a morning or nighttime routine due to its innate functions to maximise benefits and reduce side effects.