In the current COVID-19 situation, people might think that there is no need to pay attention to stay at home skin care, since staying home is the safest environment for the skin. Whilst it’s true that the home environment is generally a lot more conducive than the outdoor environment for skin, such as avoiding onslaughts from the sun’s ultraviolet, there may be some lesser-known “dangers” to your skin while staying home. In this article, we seek to explore these lesser known stay at home skin care “dangers” and some tips to keep them at bay.
Stay At Home Skin Care “Dangers”
First of all, when indoors and leaving the air conditioning turned on all the time, you may not be paying attention to the ambient humidity. The combination of a dry environment caused by the air conditioner as well as the fact that it is a lot cooler than our usual climate, can increase a phenomenon known as transepidermal water loss. This essentially refers to evaporation of our skin’s innate moisture levels to the environment and this can cause a bit of dry skin in individuals who otherwise have normal skin. For people who are prone to dry sensitive skin, this constant indoor air condition environment may be severe enough to trigger an attack or flare up of eczema.
The other thing in the entire context of us staying home all the time, would be there is definitely less physical activity than if we went about our daily activities. This is especially so for people who are dependant on domestic help, for example, then they may be extremely sedentary during this stay home period and lack of exercise is not good for the skin as it is for the human body as a whole. The skin, like any organ, relies on perfusion or circulation and blood flow to deliver nutrients to it, and even more so, being the largest organ in the human body.
Furthermore, if you are gaining a lot of weight without exercise, that is detrimental to your skin in the long run because fats cells secrete testosterone. Testosterone is the male hormone that causes people to be more prone to acne and greasy skin. Finally, if you are always looking to snacking when you are at home, do bear in mind that if you are eating a lot of deep fried snacks like potato chips or sweets like chocolates and dairy, all these can increase your risk of inflammatory skin conditions, in particular conditions such as adult acne.
Stay At Home Skin Care Tips
The situation of the COVID-19 pandemic and us having to spend a lot of time at home, is a good opportunity for us to pay attention to what is first of all essential, efficient and sustainable, rather than “oh you know I got more time now I’m just going to add on a million and one things to my stay at home skin care regime”. It could be very opportunistic for beauty brands to advise anything otherwise. Therefore, from a dermatologist’s perspective, my advise doesn’t change whether it is in the time of a pandemic or in an ordinary day.
The basic principles are if you are suffering from a skin condition, please get it treated by an accredited dermatologist, rather than going around trying all sorts of different products or googling to see on beauty forums what people use or DIY methods. This is because none of these will work if you truly have a persistent skin problem, that is, anything lasting more than 2-3 weeks and is recurrent or chronic.
If you don’t get that out of the way, no matter how wonderful your skincare regime is, you’re not going to see results. In fact, it would be a blind process trying to encourage somebody to do a stay at home skin care regime, just because they are spending more time at home.
If you have healthy skin or say you are experiencing a little bit of ageing and want to optimise what you do for your skin, it is a good time for people to realise that facials, medispas and even what we consider therapeutic treatments such as cosmetic lasers or HIFU (High Intensity Focused Ultrasound) technology for aesthetic purposes, are not essential services. In a time such as now, these aesthetic services will not be available and are therefore not sustainable.
On the note of sustainability, it is important to see that whatever is science based and is a topical will fare better as stay at home skin care. If you are able to apply the topical yourself, the good news is that you are in full control of it and you do not need anyone else to apply it for you. Nonetheless, it is important to be a voice of discernment in this case so we hopefully can help people on this topic of science-based topicals, or cosmeceuticals.
Cosmeceuticals are cosmetics infused with pharmaceutically bioactive ingredients. There is currently limited regulatory control on cosmeceuticals, so it is important to do your brand and ingredient list research. As a general rule of thumb, we would recommend including plant antioxidants, so look out for an ingredient such as centella or portulaca oleracea which is something that we have included in all of our antioxidant skincare formulations.
In addition, we recommend as basics for stay at home skin care, the use of a stabilised vitamin C serum and a ceramide-based moisturiser. Stabilised vitamin C, such as sodium ascorbyl phosphate, is effective in conferring would healing benefits to skin even at concentrations of 5% or less. This is whilst avoiding the pitfall of skin irritation as with raw un-stabilised ascorbic acid, which is often formulated in higher concentrations at >10% to counter the ease of degradation in atmospheric oxygen. Ceramides, on the other hand, are like to the skin, the cement used to stick brick walls together, and help maintain healthy skin barrier function to regulate water loss which any good moisturiser should.
There is no point in using just serums blindly in a stay at home skin care routine, because at some point in time you do need a cream. This is so even if your skin is very greasy and the key thing is to avoid occlusive creams like paraffin and vaseline. Instead, go for a moisturising cream well formulated with ceramides, which will be helpful even if you have greasy skin. In fact, to treat the greasiness on skin, moisturisers play an important role to target the underlying seborrhea, often a form of reactive seborrhea whereby the skin produces even more oil because of stripping away of its natural oils.
Conversely, with a good moisturiser that hydrates the skin, the skin would gradually learn to produce less oil and become less greasy. For intense hydration and oil control on greasy skin, a well formulated Hyaluronic Acid serum in the range of 1% concentration is essential and would prove essential in stay at home skin care. Do note most commercial brands have concentrations of hyaluronic acid much lower.
A good cleanser also plays an important part in any stay at home skin care routine. If you are wearing makeup, makeup removal is done either with a micellar formulation or an oil based emulsion which essentially both function to dissolve pigments, and the same with mascara, eye makeup and lipstick. However, when staying at home and not really putting on makeup, the second layer in cleansing the skin is probably more important and it may be worth looking closely into the function of your cleanser’s ingredients.
In our practice, we recommend a Honey Cleanser. Honey is naturally anti-bacterial and the cleanser further contains an Arnica Montana flower extract that soothes and calms the skin. The cleanser is also gentle on the skin, and avoids the use of skin-drying surfactants such as sodium laureth sulphate which strips away the skin’s natural oils.
We can’t emphasise enough the importance of using a good cleanser and cleansing regularly. Even if you’re not outdoors, don’t get exposed to pollutants or don’t sweat, know that your body naturally produces some oil. This is the case even if you think your skin is very dry, and excess oil on the skin surface contacts and oxidises with particulates in your house environment, which is how clogged pores are formed.
There could also be lots of indoor pollutants and the indoor environment may not actually be necessarily much better than the outdoors.Very limited studies have been done with indoor pollutants like benzenes, volatile agents, formaldehyde emitted from your furniture, paintwork etc and how these affect the skin. Nonetheless, it is postulated that these will generate some form of free radical formation on the surface of your skin, which contributes to skin ageing. Keeping your skin clean and moisturised is no doubt an important part of cosmeceuticals in a stay at home skin care routine.
The COVID pandemic worldwide is unprecedented. We at TWL Skin started our Specialist Dermatology Telemedicine (or ‘teledermatology’ in short) service early in January as an accompaniment to the launch of our online skincare pharmacy Dr.TWL Pharmacy. This turns out to form the bulk of our consultations since COVID affected our sunny Singapore shores in March
As an accredited specialist dermatology clinic by the Ministry of Health, TWL Specialist Skin & Laser Centre helmed by Dr. Teo Wan Lin, remains open as part of an offsite specialist dermatology clinic offering essential medical dermatology care during this pandemic. Since Singapore’s circuit breaker was commenced, and now extended till 1 June 2020, our lives have all changed at least in one way or another. We check in with our dermatologist and medical director Dr. Teo Wan Lin, on how a day in the life of a dermatologist is like in the time of COVID!
How has your daily routine changed? How so in your specialist dermatology practice?
I used to start my day with horse riding at my club, swimming or attending a fencing lesson with my coach. These days, I get up early to garden, I am starting a lot of seedlings and rebooting my hydroponic system to get self-sufficient!
Work wise, I usually start at 10am and that is pretty much the same other than that I work from home most days, seeing patients via our teledermatology service.
My clinic TWL Specialist Skin and Laser Centre is a specialist dermatology practice and our medical dermatology services fall under essential services in this time of the Circuit Breaker. I started teledermatology consultations last month for the safety of our patients and staff. It was timely that we had finally launched the service in January for our overseas patients who had requested for it, and is now available for all our patients with doorstep contactless delivery service of prescription medications. Our online skincare pharmacy Dr.TWL Pharmacy also delivers prescriptive cosmeceuticals by our pharmacist and myself to specific skin concerns such as pigmentation, oily acne prone skin, sensitive skin and eczema.
Tell us more about the “new” day in your specialist dermatology practice?
My new day actually includes a lot more time for self-care! As I am not physically in the clinic other than for urgent procedures, I’ve also had to skip my regular in-clinic laser toning treatments for anti-ageing maintenance regime! I have that extra bit of time though working from home with self care which I believe is absolutely critical in this stay home period, for both our physical and mental wellbeing. So I’m doing my own home facial treatment these days with our medifacial kit, the SilkPeel, which comes with 3 cosmeceutical solutions similar to what we do in our clinic, but for home use!
Mentally, my new day is similar to my usual work day mindset. I am actually a workaholic when it comes to executing my ideas so nothing much has changed from there! I’m definitely spending a lot of time on gardening and researching on the topic of urban farming, which has been my passion for a long time.
I am working with my team at Dr.TWL Biomaterials to bring a portable Aquaponic set up prototype to fruition really soon, to be available for pre-order via our site. This allows breeding of both edible fish like tilapia as well as hydroponic growth of vegetables without the use of chemical solutions but rather fish waste. It’s also in the right direction for sustainability, and this covid pandemic has taught us that self-sufficiency may be a basic need, not just a bonus.
Dr. Teo, do you order your meals in or do you cook?
I cook all my meals usually unless I’m going out over the weekend- before the circuit breaker I had already been having home cooked meals. During the work week I use an electric lunchbox at work which I prepare the night before and simply steam it right at work!
What are you doing now with some extra at-home time?
Work wise, our consultations are fully teledermatology via a secure medical database system, which we make use of to provide top notch specialist dermatology care virtually as we would with any patient face to face. This gives me more control over my time and I am super excited to share that I am starting a personal blog on best skincare and skincare tips as a dermatologist’s guide for the public! I started opera lessons at the beginning of last year. I am practising my all time favourite song now Un Bel Di Vedremo from Madame Butterfly by Puccini, my lessons are now via zoom!
What is the first thing you want to do once this is over?
I can’t wait to start riding again, go for my fencing training, meet all my friends and loved ones. Going for my evening runs with my dog on the polo field, that’s exhilarating for me. Also just seeing patients, the personal touch is so important. That’s exactly why I became a doctor, because I really cherish the human connection and this is something that we clearly took for granted before COVID.
Many beauty writers have asked me what the ideal skincare routine should be, for today’s busy woman. Is there even such a routine? I have outlined the following— which are frequently asked questions posed by readers and my patients. In the following article, I plan to outline, in a scientific manner the way I have structured my own skincare routine. I recommend this also for my own patients and readers. It is important to learn how to efficiently apply cosmeceuticals as well as to understand the scientific basis for such a routine.
Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals is a dermatologist formulated cosmeceutical skincare range that is produced in a EUROISO22716 manufacturing facility, the gold standard in skincare manufacturing. The Dr.TWL Research and Development Team includes chemists working under the supervision of a pharmaceutical engineer and an accredited Singapore dermatologist.
Why do I need to have a different skincare routine in the morning or night?
Skincare routines recommended by dermatologists contain cosmeceutical active ingredients which help to repair and rejuvenate skin via topical absorption. Day skincare routines should include active ingredients like plant based anti-oxidants to actively fight photoaging due to sun exposure, cosmetic enhancers that can double up as skincare makeup. Dr.TWL develops a range of colour correction concealers to use with skin tone concealers for daytime use, they function as skincare that’s also makeup. They are infused with a cosmeceutical oligopeptide base— these function as makeup with pigments to cancel out redness, blemishes, pigmentation spots and sallowness, as well as skincare to treat and heal these problem areas.
Difference between Day and Night Cosmeceutical Actives
Night- Cosmeceutical Actives
Some ingredients, such as retinols or retinoids cause sunsensitivity and should only be used at night and not in the day, due to the potential of sun exposure. Skin repairing ingredients such as phytoantioxidants, as well as ceramide based moisturisers (which tend to be thicker formulations, unsuitable for day time) help to regenerate the skin during the sleep cycle, which is an important time for cellular rest and repair.
Day Cosmeceutical Actives
Vitamin C serum, for example, is a potent antioxidant that should be incorporated in the daytime routine(and night as well) especially because it helps to actively fend of the free radical formation due to sun-induced ageing (photoaging). Same goes for phyto(plant-derived) antioxidants.
Texture of product
Daytime routines should include a gentle cleanser to remove debris, brighten and prep skin for absorption, minimum vitamin C based cosmeceutical, a moisturiser and sunscreen. The texture of all these products should be as “light” as possible while fulfilling the function of delivering the active ingredients, because wearing heavy creamy thick products on the face disturbs application of makeup and gives a greasy look in our humid climate. The priority of daytime skincare would be to give the user the feel of the product being instantly absorbed and as invisible on skin as possible.
Cleansing differences between day and night
For normal to dry skin- gentle milk cleansing is recommended in the morning, to fulfil the function of removing debris, oil and residual skincare products overnight. For oily, acne-prone skin, an emulsifying cleanser helps to remove excessive oil and to prep skin for absorbing skincare. Night cleansing for those who wear makeup is a double cleanse— oil-soluble makeup pigments have to be dissolved in an oil or micellar formula, while the residue should be removed in a lathering(foaming) formula. Double cleansing is especially important for those with combination or oily skin.
Are there any products reserved for day-time use or night-time use?
Depends on the active ingredients— as above, if it contains retinols or its derivatives it would be sun-sensitising and should only be used at night, same with any topical cosmeceutical ingredients with the potential for skin irritation, these should be reserved at night. For daytime- plant derived anti-oxidants and vitamin C help to stave off photoaging by fighting free radical formation.
What are the products you would recommend for a day-time skincare routine?
What are the products you would recommend for a night-time skincare routine?
Double cleansing with an emulsion cleanser for makeup removal and a gentle cleanser thereafter, an antioxidant serum ( such as containing Resveratrol, vitamin C, phytoantioxidants) and a moisturiser containing ceramide.
Some dermatologists are known to recommend sunscreen-use at night. Would you say you agree? Why?
I do not think it is necessary nor practical. Sunscreen is meant to protect against the damaging UV rays, which can cause sun induced photoaging and skin cancers. Sunscreens tend to contain some oil- based solvents and sleeping in it will cause stains on pillowcases.
Will having a separate day-time and night-time routine have a significant positive impact on your complexion?
I would say having evidence based cosmeceutical active ingredients in your regimen is the key determinant of the efficacy of a routine. It is important to respect that certain ingredients as above are best incorporated into either a morning or nighttime routine due to its innate functions to maximise benefits and reduce side effects.
WHY YOU SHOULD APPLY YOUR SKINCARE PRODUCTS WITH YOUR RING FINGER
How we apply our skincare is very important. Have you ever wondered why most skincare brands recommend in their product directions to use the ring finger and not any other fingers in applying and gently massaging the product unto your skin especially when it involves the eye area? That is because out of our 5 fingers, our ring finger is said to have the weakest touch. The manner on how you massage your face while cleansing it and how you apply your skincare and makeup products, even just simply scratching it or wiping it can add up to protecting the quality of your skin.
Our skin is very delicate and we want to avoid excessively tugging it whenever we apply our skincare or makeup products because this can cause our skin to show early signs of ageing. Applying with our ring finger gives an equal amount of pressure when applying products. You can easily cause wrinkles with too much pressure, and our ring finger is recommended for the least amount of pressure and pull.
Most especially when it comes to applying eye creams, using our ring finger is the best. The skin around our eyes is the most delicate among the rest, and it is most commonly the first to show the earliest sign of ageing. Mishandling of the skin around our eyes like aggressive removal of eye makeup and heavily dragging eye care products and any other skincare product unto our skin can cause eye wrinkles, crow’s feet, and other skin irritations.
That being said, no matter how the ring finger is said to be the lightest, we still have to be mindful whenever we use it to come into contact with our skin. Same with any other finger. Always work your serums, eye creams, and any other product into your skin using light, tapping motions making sure to avoid rubbing and tugging. No matter how expensive your skincare product is, the manner on how you apply it will tell how to get the most out of it.
HOW TO APPLY YOUR SKINCARE- EYE CREAM
Ever looked in the mirror and thought “My eye wrinkles are becoming more obvious each day”?
The Elixir-V™ Eyes is an eye cream that is meant to prevent dark eye circles, excessive puffiness of the eyes and eye wrinkles. Like the Elixir-V serum, it contains potent oligopeptides used for lifting and repair and our signature Larecea™ extract for regeneration. An additional ingredient is niacinamide, used for brightening. While the Elixir-V serum is meant for the skin, the Elixir-V Eyes is focused on protecting the beauty of your eyes. We believe that your eyes are the most noticeable and beautiful parts of your face. Hence, it is meant to anti-age the sensitive skin around your eyes.
Are you wondering if it is necessary to incorporate a ‘wait time’ between each step of your skincare regime? Read on as we ask a dermatologist, Dr Teo Wan Lin, to find out.
1. Do you agree with the ‘waiting time’ skincare routine method? If so, why? If no, why?
From a dermatologist’s perspective, a skincare routine does not need ‘waiting time’. How well a product is absorbed by the skin depends on the active ingredient and the formulation of the product. It has to be cosmetically acceptable; asking someone to apply a heavy ointment in a humid climate like Singapore is unacceptable.
The ease of absorption is often perceived by users as how quickly the product disappears into the skin. However, this is not an accurate indicator of how well the product is functioning or if it is better absorbed than others.
There is a certain logic to layering your products. For ease of application, I recommend applying the lightest product, such as your serums, followed by lotion and lastly your cream or oilment.
In theory, so long as the product is applied onto the skin, the active ingredient will be absorbed by the skin. Yet, the perception of ease of absorption is subjective, simply because in a humid climate, users may not feel heavier creams are being absorbed even when it is already having an effect on your skin.
It is more important to consider the active ingredient of the product and how comfortable it goes to the skin rather than the waiting time.
2. There are clearly several steps to this ‘waiting time’ skincare routine method that is recommended, but is it even possible for our skin to absorb so much product? How much product are we able to absorb? Does it differ from person to person?
In my line of cosmeceuticals, we also advocate layering. Certain active ingredients are better delivered in a serum rather than lotion/cream as it is more effective. As long as one is applying products that are accurately formulated with evidence-based science such as in a dermatologist tested line, the active ingredients will be delivered to the skin and the user can enjoy its therapeutic benefit.
Instead of relying on ‘waiting time’, users can focus on how to enhance absorption of their product. A tip I tell my patients often is to apply skincare right after a shower, when the skin is slightly damp as it helps to enhance the skin’s ability to absorb the product.
Also, rather than considering the amount of product our skin is able to absorb, the more relevant question is to consider the environmental humidity and the formulation of product (cream/serum/ointment). The absorption of product is subjective on the environmental humidity.
Someone who applies an ointment will receive the therapeutic benefit of the medication but will not feel the product is being absorbed due to the greasy layer that is left on the skin. Consider again someone who applies a serum that contains nothing but the simplest of moisturizers, say glycerin. The user will feel this serum is very well-absorbed by the skin simply because it evaporates into the air.
3. What are the key steps/products/and or habits one should have to maintain a good complexion?
I always advocate proper skin cleansing. Most women do wear makeup. Yet, many makeup removers contain harsh astringents that can disrupt the skin barrier. Leaving behind makeup residue is also not desirable as it can cause bacteria and grime to build up, especially in our humid climate. For this reason, I always advocate the double cleansing method, such as with the Milk Cleanser and Honey Cleanser, for a thorough cleanse.
The second thing I would advocate is the use of cosmeceutical serums. The two must-have serums are Hyaluronic Acid serum and a stabilised Vitamin C serum. Hyaluronic acid helps the skin to retain moisture whilst Vitamin C is an essential antioxidant that helps to fight free radical damage.
One should also never forget sun protection. Your sunscreen should have UVA/B filters, an SPF of 30 to 50, and broad-spectrum protection. Above all that, a good sunscreen should contain antioxidants too. Another key thing is the amount of sunscreen applied, as people often apply too little sunblock needed. Reapplication every 3 to 4 hours is also advocated, especially when one is outdoors.
4. Do you feel that there are any skincare hacks out there that actually work?
Skincare ‘hacks’ can be dangerous as the skin is our largest organ and should be respected. There are no shortcuts to maintaining the health of your skin. When you visit a dermatologist, we often share with you the use of cosmeceuticals and retinoids for anti-ageing. Cosmetic procedures such as lasers are also available to help reverse effects of skin ageing.
A tip that everyone can abide by is to have a good diet rich in antioxidants, adopt a healthy lifestyle that has a sufficient amount of physical activity and to get adequate sleep every night.
One’s skin type is largely determined by the genetics of an individual.
The production of oil itself is genetically determined – if one has a family history of having oily skin, it is very likely that one would develop it as well, as this is directly linked to the production of androgens such as the male hormone testosterone at the onset of puberty which affects both males and females. Based on the proportion of patients at the clinic, there is a significant population of people with oily skin types in Singapore. This is because of overactivity of the sebaceous glands which are concentrated over the forehead nose and the chin area, but can also occur on any part of the face, as well as including the chest and back which are also the areas more acne-prone. Although further research needs to be done to prove the common belief that a humid climate like Singapore results in oily skin, what we do know is that climate changes can have an adverse impact on skin that is already diseased such as with underlying acne, facial eczema or rosacea which are the common skin conditions I see in my practice. Problems associated with oily skin type?
Acne is a major issue faced by those with oily skin. The cause of acne itself is multifactorial, involving primarily genetics which causes inflammation exacerbated by the production of oil often driven by hormonal factors, leading to the formation of whiteheads and blackheads. One of the ways of treating acne would include reducing oil production by the means of an oral medication known as isotretinoin or by physical methods, such as chemical peel microdermabrasion as well as laser treatments that will shrink the oil glands. To add clarity, while almost all acne prone patients have oily skin, this is not to say that having oily skin one definitely would suffer from acne.
Oily skin type and ageing
One popular belief is that individuals with oily skin do not age as quickly. A desirable side-effect of oily skin perhaps? Or perhaps not. Skin aging is due to a complex interplay of factors, with the key determining factor being a balance between one’s biology, influenced by genetics (have a look at how your parents are aging), as well as environmental aging, due to the exposure to ultraviolet rays, air pollutants, cigarette smoke as well as a stressful lifestyle. The key thing to note is that unhealthy skin ages poorly and much worse than healthy skin. In patients with facial eczema, for example, with dry dehydrated skin known as asteatosis, they are inherently unable to produce a fatty lipid known as ceramide, which helps to repair and restore the skin barrier. Without this, the skin is unable to protect itself from external allergens or changes in the environment and this can accelerate aging. Dehydrated skin has an unhealthy epidermis and dermis. As a result, this can accelerate aging in the form of wrinkles as well as the loss of volume. If one has oily skin, the production of oil can form a barrier between the skin and the environment and this is a sort of protection which reduces the formation of fine lines and wrinkles or what cause free radical formation. Nevertheless, if one has an underlying skin condition such as scarred skin due to previous cystic acne, it doesn’t matter that your skin is oily, one would expect skin aging to progress faster than in a normal individual. There is a study which shows that people with oily skin tend to look younger than their counterparts and this is well-proven in clinical practice. However, I would say that striving to have oily skin is actually not desirable, especially in a very humid climate like Singapore, as a shiny complexion could be quite embarrassing. Long-term overproduction of oil due to overactivity of the sebaceous glands can also lead to irregular skin texture and enlarged pores. It is best to strive for healthy radiant skin that is well moisturized but not oily. There is a difference between moisturizer and oil, as I have seen many patients with nodular cystic acne and oily skin who also suffer from facial eczema which is dry dehydrated skin. Well moisturized skin is smooth and radiant, and looks healthy – a key component of the skin’s moisture is from molecules such as ceramide and hyaluronic acid which is an abundant water molecule in the second layer skin known as the dermis. It is a myth that people with oily skin don’t really need moisturizer. In fact, you could have a lot of oil on your face and still have dehydrated skin that’s lacking in the key moisture molecules. Our patients who are on treatment for acne still use a good cosmeceutical moisturizer to lighten their scars, as well as Vitamin C and Hyaluronic acid serum that can restore the correct moisture balance in their skin to prevent excessive oil production known as reactive seborrhea. Reactive seborrhea occurs when one strips skin excessively of its natural oils causing the skin to produce even more oil. Can someone with oily skin type change to having normal skin with diligent skincare alone? The amount of oil produced by an individual is genetically determined and influenced by the secretion of one’s hormones. It is however possible with proper long term cosmeceutical skincare, that one’s skin becomes adjusted in terms of restoring the normal moisture level.
Using improper skin care such as harsh oily-skin cleansers may strip skin completely dry and this leads to a vicious cycle known as reactive seborrhea. The key ingredient involved in restoring skin moisture and not oil, is firstly a pure concentrated form of topical hyaluronic acid in our skin care. According to Dr Teo Wan Lin, an accredited dermatologist at TWL Specialist Skin and Laser Centre, “We use a 1% concentrated hyaluronic acid serum freshly-compounded for optimum absorption in a pharmaceutical setting. This is easily a hundred to a thousand times higher than the concentration available in cosmetic skin preparations boasting the same ingredients. Regular use of topical hyaluronic acid has the effect of visually filling and plumping up the dermis (the second layer of skin which tends to sag with dehydration and aging), leading to a poreless, even complexion”
In terms of cleansing, I would recommend using an antibacterial foaming cleanser. The honey cleanser is formulated to remove grime, oil, bacteria and other surface pollutants that tend to settle on the skin at the end of the day. The nature of oily skin is that it tends to be a breeding ground for bacteria as well as a certain type of yeast known as malassezia which thrives in a humid climate like Singapore. This is a non-chemical form of an antibacterial and antiseptic wash, using natural medical grade honey which helps in reducing the amount of grease on one’s face. As honey is a natural humectant, it traps moisture under the skin while cleansing. It thus helps to moisturize the skin and regulates the balance of the oils as well as health of the skin. For a targeted approach, treating oily skin – medically known as Hyperseborrhea, a visit to a dermatologist is recommended. This would typically involve counselling on the use of appropriate cosmeceuticals as well as a retinoid which can regulate oil production. Our patients would also undergo chemical peels (glycolic, lactic and salicylic acid peels) in combination with laser treatments that can help to shrink the oil glands and reduce oil production. From then on, once the amount of oil production is reduced, it is easier to maintain with topicals alone.
A skincare regime for oily skin type There is a recipe for healthy skin in the same way one is careful to have a healthy diet and lifestyle to prevent illness, rather than change one’s diet only after one gets sick. Whether or not you have dry, oily or combination skin, there is really skincare that is suited for you and the answer lies in dermatologist-tested cosmeceutical skincare. Cosmeceuticals are researched to include potent bioactive ingredients formulated to prevent the onset of aging, as well as to deliver nutrients to your skin. Such a skincare regimen, is likened to a healthy diet that will prevent skin problems from developing later. If you have an underlying skin condition, cosmeceutical skincare can also reduce the severity of acne and facial eczema. So it is indeed true, at least for cosmeceutical skincare, that there is a one-size-fits-all for all types of skin, as a recommendation for the basic healthy diet of skin.
The key conundrum in skincare that has been plaguing dermatologists in the last 50 years was really that the dermatologist-tested skincare (which is compatible with aging problem skin types) we advocated for our patients did not provide additional cosmeceutical benefits. These women then went looking for over-the-counter cosmetics skincare which promised them anti-aging, but clearly not without the irritation and side effects. Then the dermatological community turned its attention to clinically proven anti-oxidants in skincare and showed that cosmeceuticals were valid and important in the treatment of aging skin to restore skin health. The advent of cosmeceuticals promises the same level of non-irritating gentle skin cleansing and moisturizing, with all the power molecules antioxidants which can lighten scars, brighten your complexion and retard aging. What’s there not to love?
Do you suffer from symptoms such as skin redness, flaking, itch or stinging pain? Did you have eczema, asthma or sensitive nose when you were young, or have a family history of eczema or sensitive skin? Does your skin get red and itchy when you use makeup or skincare products, or when you are exposed to a dusty or sweaty environment? Does your skin act up when travelling to a cold or dry climate?
Dermatologists diagnose true “sensitive skin”, with a medical condition known as eczema, where common exposures to the environment or skincare and make up can trigger off flare-ups.
2. What Is Defined As Sensitive Skin Then?
People with sensitive skin are likely to have atopic dermatitis, which is a genetically determined condition where the skin is deficient in certain fats. The skin acts as a barrier to the environment and, without a proper functioning skin barrier, any dust, climate change, pet fur, or even emotional stress can trigger off a flare-up.
If you have never had any of these symptoms and suddenly experience “sensitivity”, especially soon after using a new skincare or makeup product, it might actually be a form of allergic contact dermatitis to an applied substance. This would be best reviewed by a dermatologist who might suggest a patch test and also receive appropriate medical treatment.
Undiagnosed and untreated skin sensitivity can become chronic and may result in scarring such as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation which results in dark marks on one’s face.
Your dermatologist will prescribe you anti-inflammatory creams such as topical steroids of the appropriate strength and ceramide-rich emollients that replenish the skin barrier. In the case of any infection, oral antibiotics to clear the skin infection would also be prescribed. Oral steroids may also be required for severe eczema.
Here are three of the best skincare tips for people with sensitive skin:
1) Look for “dermatologically tested and formulated” labels that are produced in certified laboratories and that work with dermatologists rather than cosmetic brands.
2) Get your dermatologist to recommend a gentle cleanser formulated for effective cleansing of eczema-prone skin.
3) Get your sensitive skin treated first before using anti-ageing products Many anti-ageing products contain stimulating ingredients which may worsen sensitive skin. If you do use them, look for a product that’s recommended by your dermatologist.
Meet with Dr. Teo Wan Lin, founder and Specialist Consultant Dermatologist of TWL Specialist Skin & Laser Centre, an accredited dermatologist specialising in medical and aesthetic dermatology. She integrates her artistic sensibility with her research background and specialist dermatologist training, by means of customised, evidence-based aesthetic treatments using state-of the-art machines, injectables (fillers and toxins) which work synergistically with her proprietary line of specialist dermatologist grade cosmeceuticals Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals.
To book an appointment with Dr. Teo, call us at +65 6355 0522, or email firstname.lastname@example.org. Alternatively, you may fill up our contact form here.