Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals was founded in 2016, as a specialist cosmeceutical skincare line, by brother-and-sister duo Mr Justin Teo, a pharmaceutical engineer, and his sister Dr. Teo Wan Lin, an accredited dermatologist in Singapore. In a society deluged by a myriad of skincare products driven by the cosmetic and beauty industry, the brother and sister duo combined their professional expertise to develop dermatologist formulated skincare and skincare regimen for sensitive skin, with evidence-based active ingredients for skin rejuvenation and anti-aging.
This ideal skincare regimen is the range initially developed for dermatology patients with sensitive skin, rosacea, eczema and acne, and is suitable for treatment for all skin types because of its highly tolerable formulations. Read on to find out more on Dr. Teo’s recommended skincare regimen.
Step 1: Le Lait™ Milk Cleanser
This is step 1 of Dr. Teo’s cleansing skincare regimen which is theLe Lait™ Milk Cleanser formulated specifically for individuals with eczema, rosacea, acne, sensitive skin types, as well as those who have just undergone laser treatment. It contains calming camphor which reduces redness and inflammation while effectively dissolving oil-soluble makeup pigments, making sure that the skin is thoroughly cleansed from the very first step. It also contains regenerating LARECEA extract which is from Brassica oleracea and all that is in a purified, calming, deep sea water base.
Step 2: Miel Honey™ Cleanser
Step 2 is what you should definitely not miss in your skincare regimen if you have a combination or oily skin. This is the Miel Honey™ Cleanser which is formulated with medical grade honey. Medical grade honey has natural antimicrobial effects, meaning it acts against a variety of both pathogenic bacteria as well as yeast organisms. This is very important because it also helps to maintain a healthy skin microbiome that reduces the incidence of acne, maskne, fungal acne which is pityrosporum folliculitis due to a yeast organism, as well as alleviate symptoms of eczema which are also affected by changes in the skin microbiome.
Step 3: Power Twins
The step right after cleansing in a skincare regimen is the application of serums. These two are known as the power twins – Hyaluronic Acid and Vitamin C Serum. The Hyaluronic Acid serum is an in-house formula specially compounded for individuals with eczema because commercial formulations tend to contain other excipients or maybe in a vehicle that causes stinging and burning. This is at one of the highest concentrations commercially available at 1%, it is a pure, molecular formula consisting of multi-weighted types of hyaluronic acid to ensure optimal absorption.
The second serum in our skincare regimen is the Vitá C GOLD™ Serum which is suitable for individuals with eczema, sensitive skin types and are not able to tolerate commercial formulations which generally contain L-ascorbic acid. L-ascorbic acid is effective but if you have sensitive skin or a history of it, you may sometimes experience burning, stinging and redness if you apply Vitamin C.
Why is Vitamin C important in the skincare regimen? It is an antioxidant which means that regardless of your underlying skin condition, whether you have a medical skin condition such as acne or rosacea, or you are concerned about aging in general, antioxidants actually help to reduce inflammation and can slow down the process of skin aging and can even offer photoprotective effects which means that it protects you against the harmful ultraviolet rays you are exposed to, when used in conjunction with a sunblock.
The active ingredient here is sodium ascorbyl phosphate which is a far better tolerated active form of Vitamin C than L-ascorbic acid because it is a neutral molecule. This is very important if you are undergoing treatment for acne. For example, if you use retinoids or retinols, you may find that traditional formulations of Vitamin C cause burning or stinging. If you have a history sensitive skin or eczema, Vitamin C formulations will generally trigger off skin irritation. L-ascorbic acid is an acidic molecule. Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, being neutral, is less likely to trigger off any skin irritation even in individuals with a history with sensitivity.
Step 4: Elixir-V™ Total Recovery Serum
The third serum which Dr. Teo uses twice a day in her skincare regimen and also recommends to her patients is the Elixir-V Serum. It is predominantly an anti-aging serum that works via anti-inflammatory effects, hence slowing down the rate of photoaging because it enables your skin to be able to fight off oxidative stress and free radical damage, especially due to environmental damage.
Ultraviolet radiation and environmental pollution are the commonest causes of oxidative stress that accelerate the process of photoaging.The active ingredient in this formula, a specific form of resveratrol known as trans-resveratrol, is derived from the Japanese Knotweed plant. Trans-resveratrol is an effective form of resveratrol that can help to fight free radical damage.
In addition, there is the Cica extract, also known as Centella Asiatica. Cica itself is very well known and is proven in scientific literature for its ability to reduce PIH, or post-inflammation hyperpigmentation. It is a recommended serum if you suffer from acne scarring.
Usually, while you are having the acne bump, we recommend applying this together with an effective pimple cream like the Blemish Spot Cream, to minimize the chances of it turning into an acne scar. The serum has oligopeptides which help to tighten and lift your face. This works via stimulation of collagen and it does not have the irritating side effects of retinol or retinoids, so it is suitable for individuals with skin sensitivity as it is highly tolerable.
After application of serums, the next step in a skincare regimen would be to apply your moisturiser. This is the Radiance Fluide Emulsion, which has a lighter texture than the Multi-CERAM™ Cream which is the intensive moisturizer that Dr. Teo prescribes to her patients with eczema and sensitive skin.
This is particularly important because as an emulsion, it has a much less sticky feel. At the same time, it is not water-based because water-based moisturisers are not very effective. So essentially, this is an oil and water emulsion formula. It helps to trap enough moisture underneath your skin because of the active ingredients which function as humectants and at the same time, there are various plant-derived antioxidant extracts that help to fight free radical damage.
The emulsion also has niacinamide which has a brightening effect as we know that plays a significant role in reducing uneven pigmentation, as well as pigmentation due to photoaging. Finally, it also has oligopeptides. Peptides are actually better than retinoid or its derivatives, because it has no risk of skin irritation and has similar effects that are proven in the scientific literature for stimulating collagen production. This contributes to increased skin elasticity as well as plumpness.
Step 6: Mineral Booster™
Is it necessary to use a facial mist for our skincare regimen? Dr. Teo recommends one especially if you are living in a tropical country like Singapore. It is very hot outside but then we are mostly indoors in an air conditioned environment, which means there is a dramatic change in terms of the ambient humidity when you move in and out of the office.
This is critical because we know that in low humidity environments such as in air conditioning, there is increased transepidermal water loss and it is rather impractical to be layering on moisturizers whether in an emulsion or cream formula throughout the day, so this is when using a mist. In this case, what is highly effective as a moisturizer and also stable in a water formula, is actually polyglutamic acid (PGA). PGA is actually four to five times more effective than hyaluronic acid (HA) in terms of its ability to hold water.
However, it is probably less well-known simply because it is an expensive molecule and cosmetic companies have favoured using HA as a result. The Mineral Booster contains polyglutamic acid as its main active ingredient. It can help you achieve a glass skin appearance because PGA is a fairly large molecule, much larger than hyaluronic acid, and it sits on the surface of the skin. This gives an immediate plumping, glowing, glass and translucent skin sort of effect that we do see on a lot of celebrities especially in Korea where PGA has gained a lot of attention as an effective, cosmeceutical and moisturizing ingredient.
Step 7: SunProtector™
Well hands up, who doesn’t use sunscreen here in their skincare regimen? The truth is we all know that using sunscreen is not just important for prevention of aging, but also for prevention of skin cancers. It is important to know the practical reasons why individuals may not use as much sunscreen as they should and we are going to explore it in this short clip. First of all, your sunscreen may leave a white cast on your skin.
This is quite common with Western formulated sunscreens because of the difference in skin tone and skin colour. For Asian skin, it is really important to also understand that in South East Asia especially, the humidity actually increases discomfort when we wear sunscreen, and that is exacerbated because we are all wearing a face mask these days.
The truth is, in order for an effective sunscreen to protect you against the ultraviolet rays, it has to be in some sort of oil vehicle. This is primarily because the UVA blockers are stable in an oil vehicle as opposed to just the physical blockers which are broad spectrum UVB. Particularly, UVA is actually important in terms of its role in photoaging.
It is very important to know that your sunscreen contains antioxidants because antioxidants work synergistically together with sunscreen ingredients to reduce and prevent skin damage due to sun exposure. This also helps to reduce oxidative stress caused by environmental pollution. Portulaca Oleracea (Purslane) is the active antioxidant in this formula. The ingredient also has an anti-wrinkle ingredient hexapeptide which has a botox-like effect in terms of relaxing your skin’s muscles when topically applied.
Dermatologist-recommended skincare regimen for acne treatment
Whether you suffer from acne as a teen or even as an adult, it is important to emphasise topical treatment that is integrated into your skincare regimen. An effective pimple cream must first of all, prevent progression of an already inflamed acne pump known as a papule, to a cyst. The process is best achieved by using an anti-inflammatory ingredient such as Chlorella Vulgaris present in the Blemish Spot Cream that reduces sebum production at the same time. It also contains argan oil as well as methionine which are both important in reducing post-inflammation hyperpigmentation that contributes to acne scarring.
In skincare regimens, hydrocolloid patches are actually emerging as a very effective tool in our fight against acne. This is because hydrocolloid is very effective not just for wound healing where it absorbs pus and what we call, exudate, but also reduces the time taken for the wound to heal. For an active acne bump, The patch also helps to draw out the exudate, hence flattening the pimple with application. It also has additional benefits – it is antibacterial, it prevents the growth of bacteria when it is applied on your skin. Finally, it also prevents you from touching your pimple.
Dermatologist-formulated face mask for an ideal skincare regimen
Why is it important to use a face mask in our skincare regimen? Well, we know that certain active ingredients, when used as a leave-on formula, can potentially irritate the skin even if it is known to be beneficial. An example of that would be Vitamin C. The Amino Acid Masque precisely higher doses of Vitamin C in order to optimise the brightening effects on skin in a wash-off gel formula.
It also contains a potent complex of multiple floral extracts that help to give a naturally soothing sensorial experience of aromatherapy and at the same time, being suitable for sensitive skin because of its innate anti-inflammatory botanical properties. It also has oligopeptides which is an important component of all our cosmeceutical skincare as a retinol or retinoid substitute that is suitable for individuals with sensitive skin.Acne, Skincare